COSMOFACTORY

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Deanna: Welcome to Cosmo Factory. A podcast by Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna, where we explore the entire cosmetics, personal care, and fragrance industry supply chain. I'm your host, Deanna Utroske. And here at Cosmo Factory, we look beyond the trends to discover the ideas, initiatives, and innovations that are truly advancing beauty.
Deanna: Let's get started.
Deanna: In this episode, we will discuss contract manufacturing, product innovation, indie beauty, and Industry transparency, sustainability in manufacturing, and more. Joining me today on the Cosmo Factory podcast is Arwin Imperatori, Communication Manager at Ancorotti Cosmetics.
Arwen: for having me.
Deanna: Excellent. I'm so glad you could be here.
Deanna: So Ancorotti is a contract manufacturer, um, based here in Italy where we're, uh, interviewing at the [00:01:00] Cosmopac, uh, section of the show here. Um, go ahead and introduce everyone in case they don't know your company.
Arwen: Yes, of course. We are a contract manufacturing company. We are based in Crema, uh, in Northern Italy.
Arwen: Um, we, uh, produce Formulate and produce, um, skincare and, uh, makeup products. And, uh, we have clients all over the world.
Deanna: Yeah. And, and you were telling me a little bit before we got started that, um, one of the company's specialties is mascara. Tell me some of those fun facts.
Arwen: Uh, yeah, actually, um, we started with mascara.
Arwen: It was the first product, um, that we did that developed in 2009. Uh, Mr. Ancorotti really, uh, launched. This project thinking of mascara is, um, the first the right product to start a company because it's a very sophisticated product. And he had the experience, um, to, you know, suggest the best [00:02:00] combination between the three.
Arwen: The brush, the packaging, uh, it's a, it's actually a system, uh, a mascara system made of multiple components that it's, it's a symphony. Um, they need to, you know, work well together. And, um, well, the fun facts are that now we are, you know, the most important mascara producer in the world. And, um, yeah, one out of four mascaras that you find on the market is our mascara.
Arwen: Let's say not our, of course, our clients, but it's Ancora Ultimate, let's say. Um, and, uh, yes, I mean, um, we have a huge capacity and, um, if we count like all the mascaras we are able to produce in one year. We would cover this distance between, uh, the North and the South Pole. So it's a huge capacity.
Deanna: Yes. Yes.
Deanna: No, that's amazing. And of course you've [00:03:00] grown well beyond mascaras. You mentioned skincare, makeup. Help me think about the product categories that you produce.
Arwen: Basically, um, uh, makeup categories and the skincare more recently. But yes, I mean, um, you know, Even though we recently started with a skin care, uh, we already won.
Arwen: Let's talk about that. So
Deanna: here at Cosmopack, we had the award ceremony last night and Ancorotti had, had an award winning product.
Arwen: Yeah. Amazing news. I mean, uh, we were really glad about this result because we are really focusing on skin care in the last, uh, years of research and development. Um, it's a product that.
Arwen: It's called a gummy soap. Um, it's, um, it's actually are they are two globes in one product. It's a treatment. Um, it's a single use treatment. It's, um, created from 99 percent natural ingredients. [00:04:00] Um, the, uh, the orange part, because I There are two hemispheres. The orange gummy is infused with orange blossom flower water and an orange flower scent.
Arwen: So it plays really with visual and smell with your senses. Also, um, they are cleansing gummies. So, um, when you apply them on your wet skin, they create, let's say, a foam, um, a cleansing foam, um, that really, uh, has, um, Much, many, many properties, many skin loving properties, uh, like it's antioxidant, it's sebum regulating, they, uh, have toning properties.
Arwen: Uh, this is actually the yellow part, uh, of the product because it's meant as a treatment, a daily treatment, um, during the morning you, um, can get energized. You energize your [00:05:00] skin with the orange part, the other, the orange sphere, and, uh, you can use the yellow one. It's, uh, a calming, you know, uh, treatment.
Arwen: And
Deanna: if I may, and tell me if I'm, I'm saying this wrong, but it's designed as a, a small package and you would peel off the top. Exactly. And you can see on, on one side, the sphere that you would use in the morning. Yeah. And on the other side, the sphere you would use in the evening. Yeah. I know. It's very
Arwen: cool to see.
Arwen: So, uh, the visual was very, you know, thought, uh, well thought because it's a clamshell
Deanna: packaging. If someone listening wants to look at this, is there a place on the website or maybe even the Cosmopack site where the awards are shown? Yeah, sure,
Arwen: sure. As finalists and then as, uh, winners. Um, yeah, I mean, uh, plus, uh, they contain eco friendly ingredients.
Arwen: Um, they, some of them are produced by fermentation, so there's a very interesting story in terms of ingredients. Yeah. [00:06:00] Yes. Excellent. Yeah.
Deanna: No, thank you for that. And can you tell me more than about, um, the company's move into skincare or maybe even adding skincare benefits and just some, some of the more conventional makeup products?
Deanna: Let's talk about that. Of
Arwen: course. Let's say that, uh, as we say, um, makeup only is over, uh, nobody wants dust makeup. Now, we really think of makeup as a fusion of, um, of queer. Of course, color result, but also skin care properties. So, um, we are really focusing on developing, um, you know, hybrid products. And, uh, you know, makeup that has, um, takes, uh, from skincare, uh, all the research about actives for instance, um, and also the functionality of these actives.
Arwen: So we really, um, don't want just, just, you know, um, pay [00:07:00] off. Color payoff, but also effectiveness. Let's
Deanna: see. Yes, that makes sense. I hear that from so many different experts in the industry, and it's it's changing. I think The formulation strategy, and in many ways, and partly, I hear this said a lot, it's more, um, a shift now from, I guess, what could we call it, straight chemistry, into more biology for, uh, color cosmetics, where it wasn't necessarily that way, where color was, uh, It's for a long time, you know, very fun for, for classical chemists.
Deanna: And now it really requires a combination of those skill sets, neither of which I have. So I can't, I can't elaborate,
Arwen: but, um, we have 50 people in R and D that, uh, luckily do.
Deanna: Yeah. No, that's terrific. That's terrific. And I imagine then you're seeing your customer ask for these sorts of benefits. Yes. Yes.
Arwen: It's something it's, it's an input, let's say from our customers. Of course we [00:08:00] formulate, you know, we cast, we customize our formulas according to their needs and their needs right now is to have something performant in terms of, um, color and, uh, performant in terms of skin benefits. And so, especially for complexion, but it's not just, uh, about complexion products.
Arwen: I mean, um, as we are a scar, great big mascara producers. I mean, they look for, um, benefits, uh, such as, you know, um, to protect the hair, um, or to stimulate Their growth.
Deanna: Yes.
Arwen: Um, and that's sort of and in this case, it takes from hair care.
Deanna: Of course, of course. But it is very much the same sort of consumer expectation that yes, color cosmetic products should have benefits as well.
Deanna: [00:09:00] No, that's fantastic. So we know that, um, not only is the company award winning this year, but everyone, you know, comes to the show here to Cosmo Pack to Cosmo Prof Worldwide Bologna to see what's new and next in the industry. And I know the team at Ankaroti is showing some new product prototypes or starter formulas.
Deanna: Talk to me about what, what is new and next. Yeah,
Arwen: I mean, Yes. Um, every year we bring here at Cosmoprof. I mean, it's the most important appointment for us during the year. We present our innovation, our new collections, um, our, you know, marketing and, um, And R& D experts work on these collections throughout the year.
Arwen: And this is sort of, um, the showcase of, uh, one year of hard work for us. Um, here we present, uh, collections that, uh, Really try to, um, you know, give a voice to the [00:10:00] trends that are now, um, emerging, uh, in the makeup and skin care, uh, world. Um, we are focusing on, of course, environmental, uh, responsibility. And so we are really.
Arwen: Taking that into account when developing new products, it's sort of, it's, it's not a trend, but it's a mindset to us. Um, and starting from that, uh, we work on, um, giving these sustainable products, uh, um, effectiveness, um, and also we really We are focusing on consumer experience, customer experience, meaning, um, the final customer.
Arwen: Yes. Yes. Um, we, we want our products not only to, uh, deliver payoff and, uh, skincare benefits. We add another layer that, [00:11:00] um, it's the pleasure that it, the user, uh, derives from using the product. And now, um, You know, we, we like to, we'd like to amaze, you know, um, the, the user and, um, with transformative textures.
Deanna: Can you give some examples from this year's collection? Yes,
Arwen: of course. I mean, um, So we go beyond, um, categorization. Um, we go beyond application area. We go beyond, uh, even them, you know, um, most well known categories in formulation terms like emotions, powder. We really, um, you know, Um, we really develop a mix of those things, um, and try to deliver products that really are, um, started to amaze, to [00:12:00] give pleasure to, uh, those who are using them.
Arwen: Cause at the end of the day, it's all about wellbeing, you know? So, um, we are really, um, starting this, um, project. aspect of the product. And, uh, and of course, we are also working on manufacturing techniques. In fact, uh, the other product that was finally still makeup, uh, was a powder, um, was Uh, injected. So it's again, uh, a mixture of, uh, a liquid formula that becomes a pottery one.
Arwen: And, um, the visuals are stunning.
Deanna: Uhhuh,
Arwen: yes, because, uh, we obtained, um, multiple colors, multiple finishes. Uh, inside the same good day and, uh, with well defined, um, you know, lines and designs. [00:13:00] So yes, that's another, um, thing we are, uh, starting. So the look. Of the product and its usability.
Deanna: Yes. Yes. Oh, that's wonderful.
Deanna: Thank you so much. Um, some folks listening might know. I recently had the opportunity to interview the vice president and CEO of on clarity cosmetics. Enrico Monica on clarity. Yes. On clarity. Excuse me. Um, for an article that was published on the Cosmo Prof site and our focus for that interview. was really about how your company as a contract manufacturer is serving independent brands, um, which sometimes are smaller, sometimes are niche, um, as they emerge, sometimes they're a very rapid growth.
Deanna: I'm hoping you can help me think a little bit more than about how Ankaroti serves the indie brands.
Arwen: Yes, sure. Um, you know, we serve many kind of customers. I mean, from big corporation to start ups. Um, in the case of in the brands, I mean, [00:14:00] uh, in being in the brand, um, means that you have a lot of potential.
Arwen: Um, and that's great. You have Uh, the word to, you know, discover in terms of growth. Um, so it means that, uh, it's an investment to us as well in a way. So, um, we'd like to think of ourselves as partners that can help you growth, you know, not just suppliers. Um, that's why even, uh, maybe for, um, quantities that are not, uh, those of a corporation.
Arwen: We try to accommodate, uh, plus they are very interested in innovation. They launch a lot of new products because of course they need to create a presence. Um, and they need to create their identity in the market. It's a very crowded market, especially, um, they, their team. [00:15:00] Target. Usually it's the young generation with social media.
Arwen: Um, it's a lot. It takes a lot of, you know, attractiveness to really stand out in this kind of market. And, um, Well, we are, of course, uh, at their disposal, um, giving inputs because we have a privileged view, you know, overview of the market, uh, cause we, we know what, uh, the market will look like, uh, two years, three years, four years from now, uh, because we are briefed by all those brands.
Arwen: So, uh, we see where the market is going and we can advise. Uh, that's really, uh, the added value of a manufacturer like us.
Deanna: Yeah. No, I think that's a wonderful point because we often think about independent brand founders, um, and brand leaders, you know, for their innovation, [00:16:00] right. For their interest in, you know, something new and, and filling consumer needs that are maybe unmet.
Deanna: Um, they're very, they tend to be very close to their consumer. They tend to be very passionate about what they're developing. And I, I think it. From what you've described, it sounds like a very good fit, um, of perspectives, right? Um, whether that founder, you know, has experience in the industry or not, bringing that together with a contract manufacturer perspective, um, like you're describing.
Deanna: Of course. Yeah, amazing things can happen. Yes,
Arwen: absolutely. So, feel free to come to us.
Deanna: I mean, you know, it's refreshing. You know, it's easy to sit here and think that anyone I'm interviewing for this, right, theoretically is selling something, whether it's, you know, a brand founder, even someone within a company.
Deanna: I had one of the podcast interviews I did recently was with a woman who focused on product development. She has to now go back from the show and sell her team on what she saw. So, you know, everyone is selling something, but, um, I think it's very admirable [00:17:00] that a company like Ancorotti is welcoming indie brands because.
Deanna: you know, five years, seven years ago, I would talk to brand founders and, you know, folks who were trying to get startup products going. And it was very difficult for them to find manufacturers that were, um, you know, willing to engage with them. Like you suggested, offer smaller minimum order quantities. Um, trade ideas, right?
Deanna: Share those trends and information with with people who might not necessarily be as experienced in the industry. So I think it's it's amazing to hear how your company is supporting the indie business, but really how so many manufacturers and suppliers now recognize the value of that that sector of our industry.
Deanna: So, um, yeah, it's a sales pitch, but it's a very refreshing.
Arwen: Yes, it's refreshing and, um, Also, the way they work. It's refreshing. Um, we are, let's say, well, we are a big company in contract manufacturing. Um, but, [00:18:00] uh, you know, we are, um, still a family. I mean, Mr. Ancorotti and his daughter are, um, all day in the office.
Arwen: And, uh, uh, we, we really like to think of ourselves as family and we are flexible. Um, and so maybe startups and indie brands. are more like us in a sense. And, uh, it's, uh, it's a good collaboration. It's a good, um, synergy.
Deanna: I love that. Thank you. Another thing I learned, uh, through the interview I had with Enrica was, um, about a project you have where you're letting, um, brands or helping brands perhaps film within your factory and actually share that manufacturing process.
Deanna: Maybe on Instagram, you know, we're with their with the end consumer. Tell me a little bit about that initiative and maybe some other aspects of transparency that come with working with a company like Ancorotti.
Arwen: Sure. Um, [00:19:00] well, that's something that came up. Um, because frequently we, uh, we started to get asked, um, about filming the production, uh, live, you know, of the So it's our request by brands and, uh, indie brands, uh, of course, being on social, they were the first, uh, to, uh, they, they were the first to share, uh, this behind the scenes, let's say, um, thing.
Arwen: Yeah. Uh, so the, the industrial process, uh, the. Um, the research process, the lab, uh, you know, um, they are really interesting in the in sharing with their audience, with their followers, the behind the scenes of the products they sell. It's a matter of transparency. They have a. Yeah. Very direct, um, the relationship with their audience.
Arwen: Um, and that's why, [00:20:00] uh, probably, um, I assume they, uh, really want, uh, to have material visual material from, from us. Yes. Um, and we are glad. I mean, uh, we, We are used to work behind the scenes and nobody in the, you know, general word, um, of consumers. Uh, it's a complex industry. So maybe consumers are not that aware of what is behind, uh, the development and manufacturing of a product.
Arwen: And I think that, uh, sharing, um, this aspect, uh, this You know, the life of a product before they sell it with the audience is very refreshing, as you said before, um, and now, uh, big brands want that too. I mean, uh, they, they want to, you know, [00:21:00] adopt, uh, some, you know, communication techniques from, uh, the indie brands because they are so much successful online.
Arwen: So they borrow from them and now even bigger brands want to showcase, well, showcase or, um, share the experience, the manufacturing experience, um, as well. And I think that's, That's, that's a great, um, you know, that's a great, uh, trend, um, because consumers want to be informed.
Deanna: Absolutely.
Arwen: They want to know where their products are, come from, um, also because, um, in, in, in In some ways we are brands too, I mean, uh, we are a guarantee of quality.
Deanna: Yes.
Arwen: Um, and so they feel reassured if they know that a product, for instance, is, uh, made by Ancorotti, made in Italy, uh, made with, uh, the [00:22:00] utmost, uh, you know, quality standards and, uh, brands, uh, are starting to understand that. And the spotlight is not shifting, but, uh, enlarging. Yes. Okay.
Deanna: Yes, absolutely. We can see more now.
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. That's wonderful. Thank you for sharing that. Um, and since we were just talking about seeing inside the manufacturing process, I know you have a super cool building that you are doing this manufacturing. I'm so
Arwen: proud of it. Yeah. Tell me, tell
Deanna: me more.
Arwen: So, um, yes, the plant we own in Crema, our hometown.
Arwen: It's Um, used to be a fact, a factory of typewriters, so, um, they used to produce typewriting machines.
Deanna: Yes.
Arwen: Um, it was owned by the Olivetti industries and then it was abandoned, uh, for, you know, Decades. Um, and, uh, Mr and karate used to look at his window because our [00:23:00] first building where was nearby. And, um, he used to look at his window and, um, think, Okay, I mean, that that is such a thing that inside our Small town stands out as a huge pity.
Arwen: I mean, there's this building that was designed by the way that by Renzo Piano and Marco Zanuzzi, I mean, worldwide known, uh, architects, uh, that was completely, you know, in decadence. And, um, so he decided at one point, uh, recently, actually, so a few years ago to restore it, repurpose it. Yes. And now it's a factory that's, uh, produces beauty and that's great because, um, you know, many of, uh, our.
Arwen: Citizens in our town, uh, used to rely on that, um, factory, um, you know, and, uh, it really gives employment [00:24:00] to, uh, You know, a huge part of the population of the area. And, um, and also, I mean, it's a beautiful building that, uh, was really interesting to bring to life to new life.
Deanna: Yeah. No, I love that. It. It has a lot to do with the history of the community, as you're saying, many people were employed in this typewriter factory.
Arwen: Plus, I mean, with zero land consumption, we managed to, um, you know, expand our facilities and we implemented, of course, the, uh, measures, um, sustainability measures, and now we really reduced our impact and that makes us really proud.
Deanna: Yeah. I, and rightly so, I think, you know, it's, it's, Very common, especially, I'm coming from the States, um, to always build something new and, you know, talk about the materials that went into it and their sustainability, um, features, which, It's perfectly valid.
Deanna: But here was this beautiful [00:25:00] building, right? That was obviously structurally sound. You're able to be in there, um, and didn't need to be replaced, didn't need to become waste. So I think that's very, very compelling story there. Can you talk about other sustainability initiatives in place at NKOROTY?
Arwen: Yes, of course.
Arwen: I mean, what comes to mind is our partnership with DHL, for instance, where Our shipping, um, activities. Um, we started, uh, I think three years ago with DHL go green. Um, it's a program that's allowed you to offset, uh, emissions through, uh, climate protection pros projects all over the world. And now we switch to, uh, Always with DHL to, um, go green.
Arwen: Plus. So it means in setting emissions. So we are basically sponsoring the use of sustainable fuel, especially in aviation.
Deanna: Okay. [00:26:00]
Arwen: Um, this is something that comes to mind. Another thing. I mean, uh, there's a, um, there's solvent used in our formulation. Of course, then it evaporates. Um, but it doesn't evaporate, We needed to work powders into liquid form, um, and we have a plant that is able to regenerate it.
Arwen: It's a very advanced plant, uh, we do not waste, you know, this solvent, but we are able to use it into multiple production cycles, um, which is really an avant garde, um, system. Yes.
Deanna: Was there something else you wanted to share on the topic?
Arwen: Well, uh, I mean, there are
Deanna: many things we were just talking about how there's so many things the end consumer does not see in terms of manufacturing, and I think a lot of these sustainability initiatives in many ways are invisible to whether, you know, and even within our own industry.
Deanna: So I'm happy to hear more about what [00:27:00] you're doing. I
Arwen: mean, let's say that we, of course, we do everything to rationalize Um, consumption in general, um, with the new building is very easy. Uh, we really designed the manufacturing process, um, in a, uh, let's see, manufacturing, manufacturing, uh, 4. 0, um, perspective.
Arwen: Um, so with these smart, uh, devices and smart equipment we use, we really can, um, measure Which is very important and then act to, you know, um, tackle where, uh, we can, um, and, uh, you know, optimize. Where we can, but, uh, we also, um, actually are interesting in the future of sustainability and, uh, we are part of many, um, [00:28:00] programs with universities, for instance, um, to see how we can use, uh, waste, um, and, uh, So not true.
Arwen: Throw away what we waste in terms of manufacturing process, but reuse it, for instance, through microalgae. Okay. Um, there's plenty of, uh, you know, initiatives. Um, and we really are partners of those initiatives because we really want to collaborate, um, with research centers that, uh, can really offer us an alternative to.
Arwen: Uh, you know, standard waste disposal. And that's very interesting in terms of formulation. Um, well, uh, an example could be the upcycling of materials of byproducts from other industries, um, such as the food industry or the textile. [00:29:00] Um, we use those materials, let's say, um, orange water, uh, that is extracted, extracted from, uh, the peels, uh, of the fruit.
Arwen: And we put that into our formulations so that, uh, we don't use new resources, but, uh, always, you know, resources that are available. Already available. Sure. It's the same philosophy of the building, let's say, make the most of what is available, what is already used and give new life always.
Deanna: Yes. Oh, that's excellent.
Deanna: Thank you. Thank you so much. Are there questions that I should have asked you that I did not ask you yet?
Arwen: Well, I mean, probably, but you're welcome. I mean, anytime. That was a great opportunity to talk about our company and our philosophy. But I think that's pretty much all. Uh, I mean, we are a word. Uh, [00:30:00] complex word and, uh, to discover, to be discovered and, uh, we're very open to new collaborations.
Deanna: Excellent. Arwen, I thank you so much for joining me on the Cosmo Factory podcast. Deanna. Really. Thanks. Thank you so much for listening. If you find the Cosmo Factory podcast useful, please take a moment to leave us a five star review and share your thoughts so even more cosmetic industry professionals can discover the Cosmo Factory.
Deanna: I'm Deanna Utroske. Please join me again next Tuesday for a new episode of the Cosmo Factory podcast.