COSMOFACTORY

50 - Soil for Skincare, featuring Uute Scientific Product Director Iida Mäkelä
Deanna: [00:00:00] This episode is about the science of soil. It's about a microbial approach to sensitive skin and atopic conditions. It's about how we can bring wellness from the forest into our built environment and so much more. Joining me now in the CosmoFactory Podcast recording booth at Cosmoprof Worldwide. Bologna is Iida Mäkelä, product Director at Uute Scientific.
Ida, welcome to Cosmo Factory.
Iida: Thank you so much for having me.
Deanna: No, I'm very glad you could join me. And I'm going to let our, our listeners in on a little secret. Um, you're joining me on very short notice. I, I pulled you off the show floor. Uh, you're exhibiting in the fragrance and ingredient zone here at Cosmo Pac.
Um, so this. A podcast episode is a little unusual. We haven't had, um, you know, a prior conversation to prepare like I do with many of my guests. And, and I don't have a set list of interview questions, so I, I think this will be a, a particularly fun and spontaneous [00:01:00] episode for everyone to hear. Um, I, I really appreciate your, um, yeah, your.
Accommodating me for this.
Iida: Yeah, this is really exciting. And of course I'm happy to, happy to talk about our recent findings and, uh, the science around the nature exposure.
Deanna: Yeah, no, thank you so much. Um, so some of our listeners, uh, if you've been listening for a while with me, might recall one of the very early episodes in fact, that we recorded here at cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna in 2024, just last year, um, was with Johanna Rka.
Um, we spoke about, um, the. Brands that she's importing for one of her companies, but one of those brands, um, is called Nobi. Mm-hmm. Um, and so that brand actually includes, uh, the ingredient that we're going to be talking about from your company, from Uta Scientific here today. Um. And for those listeners who, um, remember Johanna's episode, and even for those of you who don't, I just wanna say a special thank you for listening.
Um, as I've suggested, we've been recording the Cosmo Factory Podcast now for a [00:02:00] full year. Um, and, and we couldn't have done it without you. Uh, it's a truly global community of listeners. Uh, you may have heard me say elsewhere that the podcast has now been downloaded in more than 100 countries around the world.
It's just, it's such a, it's such a great community and I, I truly thank all of you for listening and being a part of these conversations each week. It's, it's quite wonderful. Um, so Eda, let's get started just with a, a basic introduction. Um, UTA Scientific is, uh, a Finnish ingredient company. Um, but you're doing something quite specialized.
Tell us what you're up to.
Iida: Yes. So, uh, we are kind of the, we have the own category called Biodiversity rich, which is the, we have the only ingredient in that one, and we are really special. Uh, what we are actually doing is that we are bringing, uh, this natural exposure to everyone. So the kind of problem nowadays is that, um, we have been distancing ourself from nature pretty much.
Uh, so when we think about, uh, human evolutionary history, we were. Basically [00:03:00] covered in, in environmental microbes all the time. Uh, but due to the, uh, modernized, uh, lifestyle, that's not the case anymore. So we also get a lot of problems also from that, uh, because we are not connected to nature anymore. Uh, everyone is, uh, kind of familiar with the topic of when you go to forest, you get really, um, it calms you, lowers your blood pressure.
Also it, uh, trains our immune system, which is really cool. And now that is actually what we are restoring. So we are bringing the nature back to everyone's lives. Uh, and cosmetics is a really good way to actually do it because we have, uh, a lot of receptors on the skin that kind of, uh, are part of our immune system and, uh, are in a vital role in the nature exposure.
So. We have ingredients and that it's called reconnect nature and we bring the nature to, to people.
Deanna: Yeah. No, I love it. And, um, anyone who, who follows my work, uh, beyond the [00:04:00] Cosmo Factory podcast, surely will have heard of UTA Scientific. I've been writing and, uh, I think I even created a video, um, including your ingredient.
And I wanna be very clear, um, because it's such a distinctive ingredient in the cosmetics and personal care marketplace, um, you're basically working with a plant-based compost, um, that. In every way that I understand it mimics the natural soil that would be found in a finished forest. And then you're extracting the microbes that dwell in this.
And this then is your cosmetics ingredient. Um, it looks different. It feels different. It behaves different than a lot of ingredients. Um, formulators might be used to. Um, but it's truly fascinating and phenomenal. And, and I I like what you were saying, um, as you explained the idea of, you know, connection with nature, but youre, you mean connection with nature in a very literal way, right.
Not necessarily just a stroll through the park, but we're talking about. Feet in soil. We're talking [00:05:00] about touching trees, we're talking about getting into contact with growing plants, um, and various minerals and, and, uh, you know, soil, as we've said, you know, that that's sort of out there as it were. And this is where, um, the human microbiome.
Um, we have our inscripted microbiome. Yes. Mm-hmm. But then we get this, um, you know, microbial input from our environment. Uh, and I don't have any trees in my apartment, I'll be honest. So, um, so that's, that's certainly lacking in, in what we describe as the, the built environment. Can you, um, I, I think before we get into sort of the, the more interesting data pieces of this, can you just talk about some of maybe, um.
Product prototype formulas or how you're seeing it used. I know, like I said, the ingredient is in the Nobi brand. It's in a handful of other brands. Mm-hmm. Um, in various markets. How does this make sense in, in skincare? Help us start thinking in that direction.
Iida: Yeah, sure. Uh, Webi, um, may, our [00:06:00] ingredients is act really versatile.
So we used in many different kind of, um, our Oracle clients actually used in many different kind of formulations. From sheet masks to body bombs and lotions. Um, it goes well with pretty much every type of product and alongside cosmetics. Also, we have textiles because they are close to your skin as well.
Right? And that is a good way also to get this natural exposure, um, in with our ingredients and also toys because it's safe to use. Also in children's toys and regulation, uh, wise also. Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. So a lot of different products. Um, uh, we would like to promote people to go outdoors Yes. And do gardening.
Yes. Uh, but I know from personal experience that that's not always possible because we live really hectic, uh, lifestyles. Um, I'm lucky. I have forest next to my house basically. Yes. So I go work [00:07:00] quite often. But, uh, when in Finland, where we are from, uh, we have winter, we have winter jackets, we have, uh, gloves and the soil is usually covered in, um, snow.
So that also has, uh, some effects how much we can get this natural exposure by going outdoors. Mm-hmm. So, uh, this is a good way to incorporate this, uh, natural exposure for your everyday lives. And cosmetic is a really way easy way to kind of have it. In your daily routine?
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. And for formulators listening, um, I'll describe the ingredients as best I can.
It does very much resemble soil in some ways. Yeah. It's a, it's a, a chocolate brown granular sort of powder, um, ingredient. Um, but I, um, you know, have certainly seen it incorporated in, into numerous products. Um, it doesn't show up on the face as it were. Yes. Um, yeah. Can you, can you talk about, you know, those sorts of.
Details that might be relevant to someone [00:08:00] trying to formulate with it. How much of it does it smell funny? Does it, you know, how does it behave in water, oil? All these funny. Yeah.
Iida: You good? Really? Uh, good explanation. Uh, it's this kind of brownish powder, which is, um, some people may be kind startled at the beginning that, wow, what is this?
Uh, but it can be used, um, in, in oil phases. It's not water or oil soluble. Okay. But, uh, it can be dispersed in both different categories and need different products. We also have, um, another product version on the market, which was launched about a year ago, Uhhuh, uh, this kind of liquid version.
Deanna: Yeah.
Iida: So in the end product, the coloring effect is not that bad.
Yes. So it's, you can create really, really, really light emotions, for example, with this new liquid type. Mm-hmm. But of course, um, we have gotten feedback actually from, uh, clients and uh, end users that it's really nice to see the active ingredient in the product. So it's, uh, it's also can be a beneficial [00:09:00] thing.
Deanna: Yes. No, and I appreciate your mentioning that too, because we're certainly seeing consumers embracing. Products and even packaging that looks, and in fact is, that's why it looks this way, but looks more natural. Mm-hmm. Um, they're, you know, less likely to expect what we would describe as like a pristine white skincare product.
Um, and recognizing that there, there is certainly value add to seeing the color, the texture, um, these sorts of things from, from an active ingredient that's, that's. Delightful. So I know you've done, um, quite a bit of research. Um, you have a, a very impressive scientific background. Can you talk, talk us through some of the studies that you've done in terms of, um, you know, the benefits of exposure to this ingredient or to the source of the ingredient, perhaps?
Iida: Yeah. Yeah. So maybe I'll start from the beginning basically. Okay. So this nature exposure has been, uh, studied quite a long time already. Sure. In the universities and s scientific is actually university. Um. [00:10:00] Past a company. Right, right. So our roots are heavily, yeah. Remind us
Deanna: which university you work with?
Iida: Uh, university of Helsinki and University of Tomber. Thank you. So in Finland. So, um, they have a, kind of, a really important role in the innovation and behind this, uh, company as well. Uh, but of course, um, I'm doing my PhD alongside my colleague Johanna G. And, uh, we are doing this, uh. Bigger studies, uh, as a company, as a part of our PH thesis as as well.
Sure. Um, yeah, so the basic, um, knowledge about nature exposure is that, uh, we get immune immune diseases. They have been on the rise for a long time, over decades now. And what, and I'm sorry,
Deanna: I just wanna make sure I'm hearing you correctly. Did you like immune mediated? Is that Yes. Okay. Okay. Thank you. I'm still learning.
Yeah. Yeah.
Iida: So it means that our immune system malfunctions, [00:11:00] so it either treats foreign objects such as pollen, which is basically harmless, but it interprets it as a harmful thing and reacts really in a harmful way. Yeah.
Deanna: No, it's spring here. Um, yeah, in Bologna, Italy. And this is happening for me right now.
Iida: Oh yeah. So many people suffer from allergies and those are part of that, uh, immune-mediated diseases group. Yeah, where our immune system is not functioning properly. So we know, know that this is happening alongside with the distancing ourself from nature. And one of the really interesting university studies from five years ago, uh, was, uh, by Maria and, and, uh, it's all, and they actually had a daycare where the, the typical daycare yard, you don't have a lot of green, you have a lot of, a lot of pavements, concrete, um, kids are playing there.
But they actually brought the nature to them. So kids were playing in [00:12:00] this, uh, microbial, microbial, enriched soil and, um, plant material, uh, during the days, um, every day during four weeks. Okay. Like five days when they were in the daycare? Yes. And even within this, uh, 28 day timeline, they saw that, um, the immunoregulation actually improved.
That's a really good sign for us because we know that when we are lacking nature in our everyday lives, we can do actually do something about it.
Deanna: Right, right. So
Iida: really, really interesting and inspiring, uh, uh, research.
Deanna: Yeah, no, very promising indeed. And tell me then, what does this mean in terms of skincare?
'cause I believe most of the prototypes and, and like I said, products on the market that I've seen with reconnecting nature in the formulation are skincare or body care.
Iida: Yes. Of course in cosmetics you don't talk about immuno system. Uh, that's, uh, yes, yes. That is one thing. But we have done a lot of, uh, cosmetic, um, studies.
Okay. Both in [00:13:00] vitro and in vivo. Mm-hmm. So we have done, uh, skin models, uh, with the artificial, this kind of skin, um,
Deanna: right.
Iida: And we see from that studies and from our, uh, clinical studies that the regular use of this natural exposure actually. Promote skin barrier function and also, or enhances skin barrier function and prevents redness and irritation.
So it's actually detrimental for the wellbeing of the skin as well to get this exposure.
Deanna: Yeah, no, that's fantastic. That's fantastic. Um, and help me remember, I believe, I mean there are quite a lot of microbes in reconnecting nature. Can you sort of refresh my memory on, on how many, um. Uh, if, if you can say anything about sort of the, the breadth of, of what they do or why they're fabulous.
And then I'm again, like always, always learning more. And so this might not be the right term, but I, I wanna say deactivated microbes. Help me think about that. 'cause I [00:14:00] know, you know, people are always curious, you know, is this. You know, is this a true probiotic? What are we, you know, where are we at with that?
Let's think about microbes. Yeah. Really good question.
Iida: Uh, I think many people, uh, assume as, as kind of probiotic product. Um, but we are completely different in many ways. And key thing is the diversity. Diversity that we have of the bacteria. Um, when we go to nature, it's full of life. Uh, and one creme of forest floor soil can contain up to 10 billion bacterial cells.
So a huge, uh, number of life in small amounts. We have the same, and species wise, we have over 600 species. Wow. Uh, so pretty different. And that is the key thing, how we get this, uh, similar exposure to nature. So we have have this kind of secret recipe, uh, where we have kind of a. Determines how to make it similar as you would walk in a [00:15:00] forest, basically.
Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. So that makes us really different. And um, yeah. So those are the kind of main functions why it works. Yes. And, uh, I'm sure we'll continue to be study studies to the study study soon, but, uh, um, yeah. Yeah, those are. Those are the key features of our ingredients.
Deanna: Perfect. Yeah. No, excellent.
Excellent. And I, I love you're saying that forest floor soil, it's so romantic. Yeah. It's such a lovely, such a lovely idea. Um, and I, I believe I've, I've spoken with some of your colleagues before about the fact that this is, um. The ingredient is based on, you know, the forest soil that would be found in Finland, right?
Mm-hmm. I, I think I said earlier that you're using, um, what we could think of as sort of upcycled compost, right? Yeah. So you're not actually, you know, going out and shoveling up the forest to make this. Yeah,
Iida: that's, that's really important because as a company, we want to promote people to go outdoors and enjoy the, uh, forest.
That would be [00:16:00] really bad if we cut every forest to get Yeah. This product. So we are definitely using this upcycled plant material, uh, based compost. Where we get this desired, uh, effect. Yeah, and I,
Deanna: one of the questions I, I like to sort of think about though is, um, you know, the, as I understand, human populations sort of around the globe, right?
We'll have different, um, microbiomes based on their, uh, natural environment, right? If we think even, you know, before the built environment, right, as people were living in different places around the world. Uh, help me think about why the, the finished microbes right might be right for the global consumer.
Um, why is, why, why does this make sense?
Iida: Oh, when we, well finished, nature is really pure, first of all. So, um, do our kind of location, we go have cold wind winters, and that creates this, uh, certain environment for specific microbes to kind of, uh, grow, uh, in that conditions. Okay, so that makes it [00:17:00] really unique.
Also you mentioned about the inact inactivation process that we do. Uh, of course we don't want to have forest growing in cosmetic products, so, so we inactivate the micro so they are not living anymore viable. But the cool thing actually is that they are still, uh, the efficacy stays, right? So our immune system is in such a great, um, system that.
The particles and the structures of these micros stay intact enough for the immune system to detect them. Yeah. And learn from that information.
Deanna: It's so fascinating, right. Is it's like the little shape of what you're showing the skin Yeah. Is valuable.
Iida: Exactly. So
Deanna: cool.
Iida: Yeah. So that's, uh, that makes the product really, really safe to use, uh, in different formulations and also on sensitive skin.
Mm-hmm. Um, that is also really important because. Many people do have sensitive skin, skin and [00:18:00] our studies, uh, with patients with AIC dermatitis, um, we have done quite a bit of them and we know from those studies that it, it is suitable and safe to use on really, really, uh, sensitive skin as well.
Deanna: Yeah, no, excellent.
Thank you for that. Is there anything else you'd like to share in terms of your research or maybe benefits that you've seen from the ingredient?
Iida: Yeah. Yeah, so we just, um. Came out with the first results from our latest atopic dermatitis study. So we actually, uh, did, uh, last year it was a big study, uh, even globally.
We had, um, 140, uh, participants, atopic dermatitis. Mm-hmm. It was a randomized Okay. Placebo controlled study where we had this, uh, huge group of, uh. Um, participants divided into two groups. One group were using a placebo lotion, so something that doesn't have the active ingredients. Yes. And the other group [00:19:00] used the same base lotion, but with reconnecting nature.
Mm-hmm. So we wanted to test in actually action. Uh, when we bring the nature back to people with other big dermatitis, how do do they benefit from this, uh, ingredient? And, uh, the study lasted for seven months. Wow. So it was a really long time. Yes. Also, and the participants used the lotion three times a week minimum, uh, throughout, throughout the whole study period.
Okay. And what we actually saw was really interesting. Um, uh, they did definitely did get benefit from the nature exposure so that we saw this kind of winter worsening effects on the placebo group. Okay. And, uh. This was not visible, visible in the reconnect nature. Sure. So this is kind of, um, our hypothesis that we can improve the skin barrier function and, um, prevent [00:20:00] redness and irritation on, on people also with other, uh, dermatitis.
Actually we saw that one.
Deanna: Yeah.
Iida: And then, uh, another thing which is not part of cosmetics, uh, this, this study was a wider one. Okay. Not only focusing on cosmetics, but also having cosmetic, uh. Elements in there. So we also saw that the placebo group, uh, had more, uh, medication used days compared to the, uh, reconnecting nature group.
So that was also highly, highly interesting to see. So really, really kind of a supporting arm previous in vitro and in Vigo studies that we have done already, and, and. Further confirming those claims that we have with our ingredients. Yeah. And you mentioned,
Deanna: I believe you said winter worsening. Is that Yeah.
Yeah. It's so interesting because we think a lot about, um, you know, climate focused skincare. Um, clearly what you're describing is, you know, seasonal skincare and, and people often talk about, you know, what are, what are the right products, you know, to use in colder [00:21:00] weather? What are the right products to use during the summer?
This sort of thing. So that, that concept, um, of almost. You know, harmonizing or, or making the, you know, skincare more democratic, that's not the right word, but, you know, throughout the year. Um, yeah. That's, that's quite interesting that you can sort of, um, affect the benefits in that regard too.
Iida: Yeah. And uh, also I think everyone has some kind of irritant to their skin that they know that will affect with asic dermatitis.
Uh, with ASIC dermatitis, uh, it can be sweating or even sunlight. Uh, cold winter, um, dry indoor air. I think, uh, everyone who lives in a cold climate can recognize that one, but also any other irritant that there be so everybody can benefit from this, uh, improved skin barrier function or. Enhanced by your function.
Yes.
Deanna: Yes. Well, Iida , I knew I was going to learn from you during our conversation today, and I certainly have. I thank you again for making [00:22:00] time, uh, during the show here at Cosmoprof to speak with me on the CosmoFactory Podcast. Thank you again.
Iida: Thank you.
Deanna: You're welcome.