COSMOFACTORY

This transcript was automatically generated and manually edited.
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This episode is about data-driven scent creation, or what's being called Smart fragrance. It's about technology powered brand collaboration, about translating ingredients into products, and it's about changing consumer preferences as well as trends emerging in the scented products marketplace. With me in the CosmoFactory Podcast recording booth at Cosmoprof Worldwide, Bologna is my guest, Federica Libralon.
Fragrance Development manager at Scentmate by [00:01:00] dsm-firmenich. Welcome, Federica.
Hello, Deanna. Thank you so much for having me, and it's really a pleasure to be here.
Of course. No, I know. Um, you have so much interesting information to share. I'm, I'm looking forward to our conversation. Um. I'll just start by saying, you know, since 2020 for sure, every sector of beauty and fragrance has become a lot more digital.
Um, in fact, before I ask my first question, I will, uh, say a quick thank you to each of you listening to the Cosmo Factory, uh, podcast. It's a community really, of listeners that comes together every week from some 100 countries around the world to hear about ideas and innovations all along the beauty supply chain.
These conversations would not be possible without digital technologies. And it can be so easy, uh, to take this tech for granted now that it's, it's a part of our everyday life. Please know that I am sincerely grateful that you're listening to Cosmo Factory right now, and every week I. I don't take it for granted.
Uh, that with your help, [00:02:00] we are keeping the conversations that get started at cosmoprof each year. We keep these conversations going throughout the year, uh, with your help here on Cosmo Factory. I, I thank you for, for being here as a listener. So let's, you and I federica move from podcast Tech to Beauty Tech.
Sent Mate by DSM Fermanish launched in 2021 as a platform where independent brand leaders and beauty entrepreneurs, uh, could create a brief collaborate with the fragrance development team, receive samples, and even manage ordering and fulfillment. Uh, your role on the team is in fragrance evaluation, or at least that's part of your work.
Tell us a bit about your job. What, what are the responsibilities you have and, and the actual activities you spend time doing?
Sure. So, uh, fragrance evaluator is, uh, responsible to, uh, evaluate, uh, uh, the fragrances in order to, uh, propose the best option to the customer. And we do that, uh, blending the creativity of perfumers.
We talk with them and, uh, we, we [00:03:00] try to understand, which is also the business need and working with different departments. So basically this.
Yeah. No, excellent. I love that. Excellent. Thank you for that. So it sounds like you translate ingredients into products. You're, you're coordinating with perfumers, uh, with your customers as well as your, um, your own awareness, I would imagine of their end consumer.
Um, and then of course, literal scent and scented products. Help me understand how you integrate the art of fragrance with the practical work, right? Of market analysis, of team management. Um, you know, sometimes people call the work that I do communications work, but I'm starting to think that, that someone in your role needs to be sort of a, a communications genius.
There's a a lot of different minds, uh, in the mix here. How, how do you integrate all of that?
Yeah, it's, uh, quite challenging because, uh, uh, we need to really switch our mindset based on, uh, which type of department we are talking to. So, for example, uh, when we talk with perfumers, [00:04:00] we try to focus on the ingredients.
We go deeply in the. Scientific, uh, um, like explanation and we try to focus really in details on expressing the fragrance, uh, from a scientific point of view. Yes. While, uh, when we talk with the, the, the sales department, we try to, uh, explain the fragrance in a more, um, 360 degrees, uh, uh, perspective and a customer perspective.
So we go, uh, less deeply on the. Ingredient side and we explain, um, with objectives, the fragrance. So it's, uh, blending different departments, uh, perspectives and try to deliver the best product based on which type of, uh, uh, section we are we are working with.
Yeah, no, that's fantastic. Let's do talk about fragrance ingredients directly since you, you mentioned that, um, can you say something about new ingredients that you're working with, um, or what, or what's going on in the ingredient space for you?
So [00:05:00] actually, uh, regarding the ingredients, we try to blend, uh, uh, the trends of the moments together with, uh, also the scientific part that is behind. So, uh, we saw, uh, very, an increased, uh, uh, demand of upcycled ingredients and natural raw materials. Uh, for this reason, uh, we try to invest our technologies in that.
And for example, um, we, one of, of the ingredients that we really, uh, are focusing on is Jasmine Stanback from India, where, uh, we not only, uh. Try to source it in a natural way, but also, uh, we focus on the whole process of production. This ingredients, uh, is used. Um, the, the, the samba, the jasmine sandbag pets, uh, are used, um, in, uh, in India to, for the ritual of, uh,
yeah.
So you're, you're, um, what you're telling me is the, the flower petals from the jasmine are used in, in [00:06:00] rituals. Right by the, by the people of India. And then what happens
exactly so are used during the, uh, ceremonies, uh, in India and all the petals are not used anymore after the ritual. So we tend to, uh, recollect them and reuse them in order to, uh, obtain, uh, the, the FRA ingredient.
And this is an example of an upcycled ingredient, uh, from our company. Uh, we also focus on. Um, new technologies in the scientific point of view. Uh, we try to connect, uh, for example, emotions with, uh, um, the ingredients, uh, the fragrance ingredients that we are adding them to the fragrances. So, um, we try to, um, invest also in, uh, finding the right uh, uh, ingredient.
To, um, trigger the emotion in the brain. And, uh, with this technology we saw that is embracing a lot the trend, the actual trend of, [00:07:00] um, psychological stimulation. Mm-hmm. And regarding the affective trends, um, we are really focusing on the new goman sesame pistachio trends. Uh, so milky and rice comforting ingredients are really our focus right now.
Uh, so interesting. I have not heard yet about sesame as a fragrance trend, so I'll have to start smelling in a new way. I like that. Um, so you have the advantage of the Scentmate digital model in your work. I'm, I'm imagining, um, you, you know, you talked earlier about, um, what you do as in, in terms of fragrance evaluation a bit.
I am thinking that there must be typical fragrance evaluation work, and then there is fragrance evaluation with digital data. What is different because of digital?
So actually we use our. Um, digital data in order to, uh, focus more on which category in which market, uh, we [00:08:00] can work on. So it's really, um, more, uh, focus on how to use our resources, our focus, our attention in a very efficient way.
Yeah. No, that's interesting. So it sounds like, um, the digital tech is very much a, a time saving tool for you. Is that true?
Exactly. We are, we can focus on the most important part of our job, uh, thanks to the technology of this, uh, this datas
yeah. So interesting. Um. Let's think about your customer. Um, as, as I think I I mentioned at the beginning of this episode, the Scentmate platform was really developed as a, an interface, um, for the customer, right?
I'm trying to imagine this. Um, I. You know, is, is this sort of online shopping for the B2B fragrance brand owner or, or scented products Brand leader. What, what sort of user experience is this? Maybe similar to for people listening who, who don't yet understand what, [00:09:00] what scent made is about? I.
Actually, um, it's a very automatic, the way that the customer can, uh, can work with our platform.
Um, it's just, uh, a first way to meet us and try to understand how, uh, how we work and, uh, be in contact with us. So, um, it's just the first step, uh, after this, uh. Uh, website, uh, first approach, uh, we usually try to be in contact with the customers also, uh, in a. Personal way. So, um, it's not, uh, a matter of, uh, um, substituting, uh, the, the personal relationship.
It's just a way to reach us, reach out to us in a quicker and faster way.
Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. No, it's, it's wonderful to hear you say that, you know, um, I've gotten to learn about so many interesting digital technologies. You know, even with my. Podcast interviews here at cosmoprof this year, but certainly, um, throughout the year.
And it's, [00:10:00] it's something I'm hearing over and over about, um, it's almost a partnership, isn't it, between digital technology and then the human piece. And, and so much of, of the, the support that people bring, um, you know, has to do with, has to do with creativity, um, has to do with relationships. Um, yeah, it's very interesting to think of it as just, um.
You know, like you said, sort of the introduction piece of it. Can, can you share more about, about the process?
Sure. So, um, we use this, uh, this tech, this, uh, data driven datas and, uh, the, the platform, uh, that are our technological part, like, uh, more digital part, uh, in order to really, uh, enhance our work. So it's.
So just, um, first approach and just, um, a help for us to strengthen then the creativity of perfumers. Mm-hmm. It's exactly a collaboration between the digitalization and the creativity that is absolutely, uh, strengthened by that.
Yeah. Let's think about that a little bit [00:11:00] further. Um, I know of course there are perfumers on your team, right?
Uh, professional perfumers, um. I'm wondering are, do they work directly with data from Scentmate? Are they sort of downloading this in, in some sort of Excel sheet or, or how is this data, um, maybe interpreted or who is interpreting it right to, to kickstart that creative process for the, for the perfumers?
I. Actually, uh, we, the whole team can use those datas in order to enhance our work.
Sure.
So, um, we try to collaborate and interpret the datas based on our department. Uh, for example, sales department use the datas from the customers in order to enhance the, the demand and focus really on what it's more.
Useful for, for the customer scenario of the moment. Uh, marketing department use the datas, uh, in order to really, uh, understand the trends and give this market information from a broader view. And, uh, evaluation team, um, can use those [00:12:00] data in order to really understand the effective profile. And after all those datas are gathered, uh, we can give to the perfumer the relevant information to start his creative, uh, process.
Yeah. No, I, I like it. I, it, it, it sounds like in a, in a way, you're, um, making sure that the perfumer does not get overwhelmed with data. Exactly. I think that's very helpful. As a creative professional myself, I know overwhelm is, is possible. So I, I think that's, I think that's wise. Um, not that I'm a perfumer, but I like this.
I like this a lot. Um. So it, it seems to me too that, that through your work you would have, um, a pretty fun view, if I may, of, of consumer fragrance preferences or, or even brand trends. What are you seeing from your customers? I.
Actually from our customers, we see, um, not only an effecti trend of uh, this um, sick of comfort of, um, like, uh, milky, um, [00:13:00] vanilla fragrances that are really.
Going into the childish or maybe food industry, um, uh, preferences. Yeah. Uh, so new government, uh, like we said before, pistachio or mono node in perfumers that are referring to very comforting fragrances. Mm-hmm. Uh, but also trends about wellbeing and functional fragrances. So we really see this increase of functionalities, um, on the fragrance.
We, we see this connection between the psychological need of a comforting fragrance, not only from the point of view, but also from a really. Functional, um, point of view. So we, we started using the emotion technology in, in our fragrances, uh, really to have a scientifically proven, uh, technology that can trigger the emotion on the client, on the customer, and, uh, [00:14:00] really enhance this, uh, psychological stimulation.
Can you explain the emotion technology that's. That's something that was developed, um, by DSM Fair Manu? Yes. And then you get to borrow it.
Exactly. So this technology, uh, refers to the combination between the FMRI, ti analysis of the brain stimulation and the response of the customers in general. So, uh, whenever those two analysis matches, um.
We can also understand that this is a, um, proven and solid response,
right? So the customer says to you, that makes me feel good. And then you look at the brain scan and the brain says, that makes me feel good.
Yeah, we can go even with more granularity. Uh, we have actually, uh, three type of emotions that is, uh, happiness, energy, and relax and the focus.
So, um, we can really say. Um, when the customer say, when, like the, the test says, um, [00:15:00] this fragrance relax me, we see that is stimulating this part of the brain that is referring to the last relax.
Mm-hmm. That's so cool. Thank you for sharing that. Um, and, and what about sense that might be popular now or, you know, emerging in popularity or, or that you expect to be popular in the future?
What can you say there?
Well, actually for, for the future we see, um, really holistic product experience. So it's actually a trend right now also, uh, but we see a lot of potential for the future. Um, customers try to not only, um, seek fragrances that are just, uh, uh, um, an aesthetic object, but it won't something that, um, can, um.
Be more fluid can go over in, in other categories. So we are starting seeing, um, really fragrances that are, um, developed at the beginning for, uh, fine fragrance, for luxury perfumes, for niche. [00:16:00] Uh, they are starting be, um, asked also for other categories like, uh, for example, air care or laundry. And in fact, we see, for example, a lot of softeners, sand boosters that are, uh, fragrance inspired and even the opposite.
We see, um, a lot of, uh, uh, requests of fine fragrances that are starting, um, being inspired to laundry. So for example, to, uh. To ourselves, uh, um, a fragrance that is, uh, smelling like the, our favorite softener. Even connecting this with, uh, the trend I was, uh, talking before, uh, of comfortness of, um, like family ideal, let's say.
So interesting. Yeah. You're, you're talking about sort of, you know, the gourmands and the comfort, almost comfort food. You mentioned even sort of that, um, memory of childhood and then Yeah. Like you're saying, sort of being surrounded with warm laundry perhaps, and that, that sense of [00:17:00] home, there's, yeah, there's like a safety, a cocooning sort of feeling to this.
Did you have more to share in terms of sort of future forward, um, ingredients or, I'm sorry, sense that we should be thinking about.
Yeah. Also, um, like right now we see a lot of personalization of fragrances. So, um, brands and fragrances are trying to, um, focus on giving, expressing the identity of each person.
So, uh, the customers wants unique fragrances that's, uh, really express the identity of the individual. And this is like a really personalized approach to, to the category.
Yeah. Interesting. And I wanna go back, um, in your answer, you used, um, a term that I, I've probably heard before, but I haven't given it much thought.
You said mono note. Um, in terms of mono note fragrances, and there's something, um, uh, for me, it makes me think, you know. It gives me a sense of simplicity. Um, but it also gives me like a sense of, [00:18:00] of richness, um, you know, because there maybe aren't other notes or, or more notes to it inform a scent, um, that it's like, I don't wanna say heavy, but there's something I don't know, in my imagination, it feels kind of dense.
Can you say more about this mono note concept and, and where you're seeing it show up? What it, what it, you know, what it means? Um, yeah. What does this mean for fragrance? 'cause there's, there's less blending there isn't there?
Actually, it's the opposite. Tell me. Um, this trend is referring to the layering concept.
So, um, a lot, we see a lot of requisite on fragrances that are, uh, maybe a little bit more sim simple at the beginning, uh, with a straightforward note. But those are used in order to personalize the fragrance. Mm-hmm. With other fragrances that are, um, purchased by the customer. So many times, um, customer want to personalize and have a unique scent.
So they spray at first one node and then, uh, [00:19:00] they add another fragrance, layering it. And then, uh, furthermore. So it's really try to combine different fragrances in order to have, uh. It's personal, um, unique fragrance.
That's fantastic. No, thank you for teaching me that. I really did not know. I love it. I love it.
Well, Ika, this was, this was a great conversation. I, I know more about fragrance than certainly about Scentmate as well. I thank you for being a guest here on the Cosmo Factory Podcast.
Thank you very much. It's sent me a pleasure for me.
Yes, you're welcome. [00:20:00]