COSMOFACTORY

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Deanna: This episode is about neurocosmetics. psychodermatology, and haptic design. It's about the power of cosmetics and personal care to reduce stress, convey joy, and contribute to overall well being. And, it's about the importance of paying attention to both industry innovations and evolving consumer preferences.
Deanna: My guest on this episode of the CosmoFactory podcast is beauty and wellness trend forecaster, Melissa Hago. Welcome, Melissa.
Melissa: Hello, thank you for [00:01:00] having me today.
Deanna: No, I'm so glad you, um, you could join us. I'm excited to learn from you here. Um, you know, a lot of us who, um, you know, do writing or speaking in the beauty industry, you know, do a bit of trend spotting throughout our work.
Deanna: But, uh, Melissa, you've specialized in beauty trend forecasting for nearly 20 years now. Um, you're more of a professional when it comes to trends. So I'd like to just start off by asking you what trend forecasting actually is.
Melissa: So, trend forecasting is predicting what trends and movements will impact consumer behavior in the future. It can vary from fast social trends like brat summer, um, and focus on things like color, packaging, ingredients, and it could also involve bigger picture thinking, like trends that impact major lifestyle shifts.
Melissa: A good example is the aging well movement that focuses on how, as a society, we're moving away from terms like anti aging [00:02:00] and focusing more on longevity.
Deanna: Yeah, no, excellent. Thank you for that explanation. And I'm curious, you know, the CosmoFactory community of listeners is truly global, so I would like to ask if your work is focused only on particular regions or markets?
Melissa: Well, I'm focused, as you know, my title mentioned, on beauty, wellness, and food, but I'm not limited to a region. For me, it's all about this big picture thinking, so, you know, a lot of the research really stems from what is happening in the world. And I think now, especially with social media and everyone being connected, You know, it's really looking at, again, globally, what's happening, and then taking these cultural trends and applying them to the beauty industry.
Deanna: Yeah, no, excellent. That's very helpful. And quickly, if you will, give us a little behind the scenes. I know we won't leave this conversation forecasters in our audience. It's not that easy to learn. But how do you, how do you research the future?
Melissa: Yeah, I mean, I immerse myself in everything. I read a lot, the [00:03:00] news, industry articles, um, what's happening when I, like I mentioned, even though I specialize in beauty, you know, it's, You still have to read what's happening in politics, science, technology, sustainability, you know, now looking at social media, LinkedIn, attending events, small and big, you know, a lot of people go to trade show webinars, but a lot of trends that I've written about have actually stemmed from small events of like 10 people.
Melissa: So really just anything educational, the key in trend forecasting is taking all this information and being able to pinpoint the movements that stand out as the next. big trend. So a lot of it is really trusting your intuition and forecasting what's next.
Deanna: Yeah, you know, hearing how broadly you're, you know, you're, you're looking at the, at the world for your work, um, reminds me a bit, um, of the episode I recorded, um, I think it was episode 17 with Akshay Talati, who does, um, a lot of formulation and cosmetic science, um, he talked quite a bit about looking very broadly for, um, New perspective trends [00:04:00] that they could use in product development.
Deanna: But what are some other ways that brands and suppliers in particular might make use of trend forecasting data?
Melissa: Yeah, I think, you know, trends are great because it's always good to know what's coming, what's next, where the consumer is gravitating to. And like I said, the trends, besides spanning from specific to big picture, they also span on timeframe. It could be anything from, you know, what's trending this year, what's trending in the next five years, or, you know, even further ahead.
Melissa: So I think the most important thing is, you know, Knowing your consumer being able to understand what these trends are, but also knowing that there's a lot. There's a lot of trends. Not everything is for everyone. So I think just really knowing, okay, which ones should you jump on? Which ones align with your brand values?
Melissa: Um, I think that's the most important thing because sometimes. You know, brands and suppliers or, or companies can get, you know, into the, I need to be on this trend, but it's [00:05:00] not the case. I think as long as the trend aligns with your company values, then it will make the most sense.
Deanna: Yeah, yeah, excellent. I think that, that point about fit, right, between the trend and the brand or company DNA, really, that's a smart, smart observation. Um, I know that one of the trends you're following right now, um, is something we might call neuroaesthetic, so I'd like to get into that. Um, Tell us what neuroaesthetics is and, and why we are hearing about it now.
Melissa: Yeah, so neuroaesthetics is a term recently coined, um, in 1999 by neurobiologist Samir Zeki. Hopefully I said that right. Um, and it really explores how our brain reacts to beauty. So that can be art, music, nature. In the case of the beauty industry, you know, I'm seeing more and more brands and Exploring this intersection of neuroscience and beauty, which, um, we're seeing the term neurocosmetics.
Melissa: So this explores the connected pathway between the brain and skin. There's this two way communication system allowing the [00:06:00] skin to send signals to the brain via sensory neurons. And in return, receive responses. So, again, it's about products that make you feel good at a neurological level, um, by stimulating these neural pathways and producing happy hormones like serotonin, dopamine are just examples.
Melissa: And for beauty, you know, we can experience neurocosmetics in different ways. It can be through formulation, packaging, texture, and even retail and shopping experiences. I
Deanna: No, go ahead.
Melissa: was going to say as to the why, because again, I think what's important about understanding trans is understanding why is this happening.
Melissa: I think, you know, really over the years, wellness has been integrated in almost every market and beauty is really no exception. I mean, it actually makes sense. sense that wellness and beauty are connected. Um, and this is really beauty going on beyond that surface level solution. So, you know, we've seen consumers starting to care about mental health and there's also a societal [00:07:00] need for joy.
Melissa: Um, you know, there's so much happening in the world. I can't even deal with the news these days. So, you know, neuro cosmetics is resonating because it's really that next level. Of merging, um beauty and wellness by focusing on that emotional well being and again the connection between the mind with the brain the body's nervous system and the skin
Deanna: Yeah, yeah, excellent. So, one of my personal passions, um, listeners might already know is, um, ingredient science. So I'd like to, um, hear about ingredient innovations that fit into this sort of, uh, neurocosmetics trend. Things that act, as, as you suggested, maybe on the skin brain access. What are we seeing there?
Melissa: Yeah, so cbd adaptogen peptides are some of the most common neuro ingredients Um, maybe not as innovative but just common Um, but we are seeing skincare brands like nure which is um sizzly's new Brand focus on neuroscience, they're using ingredients like red indigo extract and skull cap, which can trigger [00:08:00] Neuroceptors in the skin the same way your own brain signals would Another innovative ingredient is coming from manufacturer Mabel biochemistry, and they're using simmer pepper It's a spice plant from the Himalayas And their neuroactive ingredient, they're calling T mood, and according to them, it can improve neuronal function in the skin, and has a positive influence on one's mood and emotional well being.
Melissa: And actually, um, IFF, LMR, Natural Active Essence, is also using, um, the tumeric pepper, CO2 extract, so that's one, you know, to really look at. Um, and the same with them. Theirs has They have skin and hair care benefits. But again, they're also saying that there's an emotional and cognitive health benefit to this ingredient.
Melissa: And it's even been scientifically tested by IFS Brain Emotions Neuroscience Program. Um, so those are some of you I'm sure, you know, especially because there's science involved into this. Um, there's going to [00:09:00] be even more. Coming out, but those are some of the ones on my radar
Deanna: Yeah, very cool. And you mentioned earlier sort of the skin feel or sensorial attributes of product formulations. What should we know about neurocosmetics and the sense of touch?
Melissa: Yeah, I mean touch is super important, um to New York's cosmetics because it's that sensation Of having that, you know positive impact on the nervous system. So the sensation that you feel on your skin through touch Um can produce stimuli that are transmitted to the nervous system According to the brand up circle.
Melissa: They did a study that they um, they had three lip balms all with the same ingredients um different types of emollients And each were appreciated differently. And it was all based on the texture, which was like super interesting. We know that, you know, when we touch something, if it's slimy, we may have like that icky feeling, or if it's nice and like, you know, silky smooth.
Melissa: So I do think, you know, there is a lot of research [00:10:00] about how, you know, touch is super influencing one's well being. Um, again, especially as we're putting it on our skin. Um, and I thought it was interesting, the brand Neuro that I mentioned earlier, they're choosing textures according to their emotional profile and naming it Neurotexture, so that's going to be interesting to kind of watch as more of that, um, unfolds of like these textures that make you feel a certain way.
Deanna: Absolutely. No, that's a super cool word. I hadn't, I hadn't heard about neurotextures yet, so I appreciate that note. Um, and what about flavors and fragrances? Do these fit into the neurocosmetics trend or are they sort of something else?
Melissa: Yeah, I mean, of course, I mean, I Flavor and fragrance that's they already kind of have that in their DNA, you know that make you people a lot of times These fragrances to feel better to feel a certain way So I think you know with neurocosmetics it could also trigger that positive emotion through olfactory stimulation Um, and we're seeing more and more brands collaborating with neuroscience [00:11:00] experts and labs to really enhance You know, we're seeing this next level functional fragrances Um, and again, like I mentioned, fragrances already tap into well being, they have this feel good emotion, but now seeing this fusion, so, um, to really create more of a well being effect.
Melissa: Some examples include Cody's Adidas Vibes collection. Um, according to the brand, the collection is scientifically proven to elicit positive emotions, and their consumer testing at least 81 percent agree it makes them feel good. 85 percent say it boosts their mood and again the the scents are designed to make you feel positive while matching your mood at the moment.
Melissa: So whether it's looking to power up, relax, escape. Another one that I know, you know, everyone wrote about that was on the news was Charlotte Tilbury. She launched her new line of fragrance and you know, she that I know is a big it was lots of years spent on creating this and she collaborated with perfumers, neuroscientists, AI, numerologists, like, you know, it's like, [00:12:00] okay, how do we incorporate the mind, body and soul into creating this and she even used, um, IFF's scent cube algorithm, which identifies emotion enhancing ingredients.
Melissa: So, you know, using all of that really to create these six mood boosting scents, um, which, you know, they're saying for the perfume, it's emotion boosting molecules, um, to tap into specific emotions. So, you know, just seeing that I'm sure we're going to see more flavors and fragrances that are backed by neuroscience in order to create this certain feeling or really expand this new generation of fragrances and how they alter one's mood.
Deanna: Yeah, yeah, and that makes me think a little bit, um, about an episode I recorded, um, where our guest talked about aromatherapy and, and the benefits that might have on emotional and physical health. That was, um, back in episode 30 here of Cosmo Factory. And I realize, um, Melissa, as we're going through this, We're kind of separating out these different aspects, right?
Deanna: We have, we've talked about fragrance. We've talked about skin feel. [00:13:00] Um, we've talked about the brain skin access, but we know, you know, beauty brands like to be very multifunctional and of course are very sort of. You know, have, have multiple attributes and sensorial experiences or, um, use case experiences.
Deanna: Do you have any notes on how these sorts of various factors that are affecting neurocosmetics are sort of coming together in products? Or are you still really seeing it segmented? Like you just described the Charlotte Tilbury fragrances very much. A fragrance, right? And then there's another product that might very much have a, you know, that those sensorial textures that you described being focused on on the neurocosmetics trend.
Deanna: Is it still quite segmented? Are you seeing brands merge these ideas?
Melissa: Um, I think, I mean, I think fragrance is its own, that's why, you know, it's a lot about what are the ingredients, um, what do we want to make you feel, but in the, in the end, it is about the whole experience, you know, if you, the first thing you see is a packaging, and then you touch it, and [00:14:00] then you feel it.
Melissa: So if the, I don't know, the touch is unpleasant, then you might not go ahead and open it to feel the rest of it. So I do, I do think it is a whole, you know, um, approach to the whole thing. I mean, Neuray is another, I, I mentioned them a few times because their focus is neuroscience, you know, and their, um, you know, they, they want to make sure that their whole thing is about, again, the texture, the packaging.
Melissa: But yeah, I know it's segmented because A lot of brands may use it differently. There is a lot of science involved. There's a lot of claims. So maybe not every brand wants to have an ingredient because that's a lot to put, you know, to put effort into. Maybe it's just easier to have like a packaging that is ergonomic and that Makes you feel a certain way, so I, I do think, you know, that with this one, it's a, it's a little bit harder, it's like, it kind of makes sense to have it all, but because it's so complicated, I don't think all brands might, especially more in the formulation, I think that's where it gets the most complicated, I feel like [00:15:00] maybe the packaging and texture.
Melissa: Are the quote unquote easier part, but, um, once it comes to formulation, because you want to make sure that you're having, you know, the science behind it and stuff, that it might not be, it might not be every brand.
Deanna: yeah, no, and that makes sense with, you know, newer trends and movements in the industry. Um, as suppliers and brands get involved, you know, they, I don't want to say they do the easiest thing first, but they, they want to find something that's accessible for their consumer, right? Or their, or their partner.
Deanna: So it kind of makes sense to. to take, um, the incremental steps like you're describing, um, and you've brought up the idea of beauty packaging. Um, I'm wondering if you can, you can talk a little bit about this idea of, of haptic design or ergonomics and how packaging materials and design figures in more specifically with neurocosmetics.
Melissa: Yeah, so just like touch and texture, you know, packing plays a pivotal role because it influences how we experience a product. Um, and they can elicit this emotional response, so making it [00:16:00] more engaging. I think. Definitely seen more, um, examples like packaging manufacturer Lumsum, they created this texture on their jar, which to me is pretty interesting because usually packaging is just like pretty or colorful, but to actually have like some kind of texture that engages, engages you and their texture and their Romantica jar, it's supposed to engage the Yeah.
Melissa: Yeah. So my toe sensory cortex. So it's a part of the brain that processes tactile sensation. So it almost feels like again, this next level of packaging that connects. To touch and add this layer to the experience with the materials. And, you know, more and more brands are creating packaging products that are playful, satisfying to hold and operate.
Melissa: Um, it's all about that feel good experience on an emotional level. I think that's, you know, the part to remember about this trend is that it's about that emotional well being. You know, trying to be like, okay. What, what is this [00:17:00] texture going to make me feel? What is this packaging going to make me, um, make it feel?
Melissa: So I think that's what, what's important is that, you know, we've had colorful packaging for quite some time. We've had really pretty packaging, but it's like, okay, now, you know, what, what am I feeling when I touch it?
Deanna: Yeah. Yeah. And earlier you brought up the idea of, um, neurocosmetics in the retail space. Tell me more about that.
Melissa: Yeah, so, um, you know, I think we're also seeing the neurocosmetic, neuroaesthetics being embraced in all areas. Um, because again, it's that neuroaesthetics and neurocosmetic is that big picture thinking of, like, in the end, what do we, what emotional response do we want from the consumers? So I think shopping will evolve to consider our emotions, um, to give us these experiences that, you know, calm us or feel therapeutic.
Melissa: Um, neuroaesthetics reveals that our environment directly impacts our mental and physical well being. So, you know, besides the product, don't you want to also feel good when you enter a store? [00:18:00] Um, you know, studies have shown that environments rich in, like, nature, natural shapes, materials, really help release neurotransmitters like dopamine and serotonin.
Melissa: which are associated with pleasure and relaxation. So I really think, you know, shopping experiences are going to change. They're going to be more fueled by emotional responsive. They're going to be more immersive experiences that engage sight, touch, sound, and smell. So it's not just all about the product.
Melissa: It's also about the whole experience when you go shopping.
Deanna: Yeah, no, that makes very good sense, and, um, you've suggested that in many ways those are things you expect to see coming in the retail space, so a bit forward looking there, um, but as we wrap up our conversation, I'm hoping you can sort of finish this sentence for me, um, As the neurocosmetics trend progresses, I would not be surprised to see,
Melissa: Hmm, let's see. Consumers wanting more claims and studies to back up these neuro based products. So it's not just about trendy marketing.[00:19:00]
Deanna: no, no, that makes sense, and, um, if, if you can, can you, can you just expand on that idea, I think, I think it's, well, definitely, go ahead.
Melissa: no, you know, being in trend forecasting, um, a lot of times, like I mentioned with brands earlier being authentic is that brands will want to just jump on a trend because it's trending, but as we know, the consumer is becoming more and more savvy, um, they can see through, you know, what's real, what's not real.
Melissa: So I think, especially, you know, this one's a hard one because it's not, um, It's we're talking to emotional well being, but we're not saying this is going to like be your therapist So I think you know wanting to make sure that there's like studies behind it Wanting and a lot of these brands that I mentioned are doing that work So just having that work having those claims showing that look we spent time showing that these specific things are going to make you um help with your The, you know, neuros and things like that and not just be a trending packaging of like, well, this will make you feel good because it's pretty.
Melissa: So I [00:20:00] think that's what's important. And especially again, the hard part with trends, it's like sometimes people just want to jump on it and then do it to do it without having the research to back it up, especially when it's a science based trend.
Deanna: Excellent. Excellent. Well, Melissa, you are full of helpful information. I thank you so much for taking time to speak with me on the Cosmo Factory podcast.
Melissa: Thank you. Thank you for having me.
Deanna: You're welcome.