COSMOFACTORY

Deanna: [00:00:00] This episode is about ingredient chemistry and skin biology. It's about consumer facing science and an emerging interest in ingredients, mechanisms of action. It's also about the importance of sensorial attributes in formulation and how texture can contribute to product aesthetics and visual appeal with me for this episode in the CosmoFactory recording booth at CosmoPack in Bologna, Italy is Paola Pérez, global strategic marketing manager at Lubrizol .
Paola, welcome to [00:01:00] CosmoFactory.
Paola : Thank you so much, Deanna. It's a pleasure to be here.
Deanna: Yeah, I'm so glad, so glad you could join me. I want to start for listeners who maybe don't follow the ingredient sector by saying that Lubrizol is a global specialty chemicals company with nearly, uh, 100 year history. Um, but will you introduce us a bit further to the company, especially, um, what Lubrizol does within the cosmetics and personal care industry?
Paola : Yeah, sure. Lol, as you mentioned, is a global company that, uh, started in the beauty industry years ago. I mean, it, it has a huge, uh, yeah story. And the most important is that they started with functional ingredients, everything related to the sensorial for a formulation with neurology modifiers, modifiers, this type of ingredients.
But then that included in the portfolio active ingredients. That are related to all the technology that helps with anti-aging, uh, benefit, for instance, and here
to call out that all the [00:02:00] science coming from active ingredients was ex was expanded and now they have, or we have clinical testing in different countries, uh, like, uh, Shanghai, Barcelona. Uh, so Paolo, when we can bring volunteers, bring consumers that test our ingredients, but apply into formulations for final products, and they can communicate what is the perception that they have towards those formulations, and of course we can, measure.
The performance of the active ingredients already apply on the skin of the volunteers.
Deanna: Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. No, that's fantastic. And of course, clinical data is always very compelling in the ingredient sector, but what you've described there also suggests a little bit about the nuance in your particular work.
Right? In your own, your job title is Global Strategic Marketing Manager. So maybe a little bit different than we might think of conventional marketing. It sounds like you are involved in, in research and insight. Um, but help us understand this strategic marketing piece. [00:03:00]
Paola : Good question, Deanna. And here the strategic piece comes from moving not only offering ingredients to our customers, to the brands, but also is about understanding the competitive landscape, understanding the customer brands, and of course connect everything with the consumer insights and trends that we spot to.
Suggest and propose better the ingredients that are suitable for their portfolio, I mean for the type of products that they want to promote. So it is moving from just a list of ingredients that we want to push in front of customers is also about what these ingredients means for that brand, and can we translate those ingredients into final benefits that are relevant for the brand's customer.
So that's the strategic approach. And here we are not only combining what we already have, uh, in terms of science connected with [00:04:00] the trends and insights that we identify, but also is the way to identify what is next in the beauty industry. What is the next move? What is the next trend or what is the shift in the society that leads beauty to other level?
And of course, prepare all our engines, uh, to, to tune to that innovation and of course, develop ingredients that are. Based on or inspired by those trends that we identify.
Deanna: Mm-hmm. Mm-hmm. No, this makes very good sense. And I know one of the industry movements that you are watching is the growing importance of skin biology.
Conventionally. Cosmetic science has has centered on chemistry, but today it's very much true for ingredient makers, for product formulators, skin biology is equally important. Will you talk about what you're observing about biology in beauty?
Paola : Yeah. When we say skin biology as, uh, as a new approach, uh, to longevity, it's, it's quite interesting to see the shift because [00:05:00] years ago was all about communicating ingredients and of course, uh, the consumers. Are looking for ingredients, well known. They're looking for ingredients that perform, but we envision that there is something else beyond that.
It's about how those ingredients can be translated into, um, mechanisms that influence the skin biology. And that in, uh, that method is quite important because it's about not targeting a specific, uh, cells. It's about understanding the full ecosystem. In the skin, uh, targeting, for instance, epigenetic topics or talking about telomeres or the senescence, the cell senescent, for instance.
So it's a pro, it's an approach when you use active ingredients as precision tools, in a way to say it, uh, to, uh, preserve the skin biology and to preserve the skin health. Uh, [00:06:00] so it's a shift, uh, that we expect to come stronger, uh, in the upcoming years. And we saw, we see some signals in, in the market when you see, for instance, where consumers searching for online, uh, about, uh, sene, which was acquired scientific term, but now yeah, consumers are talking about that or searching for online about that, or about exosomes or about telomere.
Or epigenetic that is not something new. Epi epigenetic was quite important years ago, but it's back and it is here stronger than before, and it's all connected with the skin biology that now brands needs, needs to target.
Deanna: Yeah, no, absolutely. And and you've highlighted in your answer there, the link, right, between skin health and skin biology.
Now we know that in, in some markets. Health and beauty have very different regulatory protocols. Nonetheless, these ideas, health and beauty, [00:07:00] or even beauty and wellness, are now very much overlapping and as you've pointed out, especially for consumers in a, in a way that they maybe had not before. I'm curious how an ingredient maker like Lubrizol then responds to this market shift.
What do you do with all the data you've gathered
Paola : different approaches. You know, for instance, from the way that we, uh, start to create a innovation pipeline, of course our scientists start to research about skin biology more tune to this, this specific topics.
Uh, for instance, I dunno, sene sense. And we have ingredients, uh, from long time ago. Targeting sene sense, but perhaps it didn't resonate before. As it as it's doing now, it resonates more because brands and consumers are trying to communicate that. So what we,
Deanna: it's it, I'm sorry. I wanna jump in and and just make sure I'm understanding correctly.
It's not only that the consumer is more interested in the benefit, but [00:08:00] they're also interested in the ingredients mechanism of action that then influences
Paola : Exactly.
Deanna: Cell sene.
Paola : Exactly.
Deanna: Yeah,
Paola : that's right. So we start to, um. Promote the ingredients in a way that for brands, it's easy to translate how they can use these type of ingredients to connect better with the, with, with their customers.
But also we tune our engines, our scientists to expand more exploration, to start, expand more, um, the research on that. And of course we ho we use not only our scientists, but we leverage artificial intelligence, for instance. To test a lot of combination of different molecules, of different type of, uh, yeah, ingredients that can perform even better.
For instance, again, targeting sene or targeting any other, uh, mechanisms. So that's the way that we translate all the insights internally and also helping our customers. [00:09:00] To communicate better externally.
Deanna: Mm-hmm. It's so fascinating, isn't it? The end consumer is more interested in this skin science maybe than ever before, and then that science sort of goes back to the folks in the lab and informs new innovation or perhaps new testing on existing ingredients.
It's, it's like the, the loop, the communication loop between the end consumer and the supply chain has changed somehow.
Paola : Exactly. And, and something that we have, uh, spotted is like, is the connection that you mentioned as well. Um, but also it comes with an expanded way to, to approach to the beauty category because at the end with, uh, cat categories like nut cosmetics, which is not new, but now consumers see more connection between, of course, health, nutrition, wellbeing, and beauty.
So perhaps before sounds like a trend, [00:10:00] wellness or wellbeing, but now you can see in different signals, for instance, that a beauty company is also including more, uh, products that are act from within to get this beauty from within. So it's a good signal to show that health and beauty are getting more, uh, close, uh, and together.
Of course it's important to connect internally with our nutricosmetics division, these type of innovations with the beauty division. Mm-hmm. So the connection is everywhere, also internal.
Deanna: Yeah.
Paola : With other divisions.
Deanna: That's so cool. And I wanna make sure, uh, because I promised our listeners that we would talk about texture and sensory appeal.
I know the Lubrizol product portfolio includes quite a number of, as you mentioned, rheology, modifiers, polymers, emulsifiers, the kind of ingredients that give product formulas, texture, as well as stability. Um, but particularly because beauty today, maybe in the era of social [00:11:00] media and all things digital, uh, a beauty product's sensor reality has a lot of work to do, right?
It's not just about touch and application. The texture actually contributes to aesthetic appeal on social media, but also in person. Um, I want you to talk more about product texture being used in this way. It, it's a very interesting concept.
Paola : Yeah. Thank you. And it's a concept that we're launching at Cosmo Park.
Oh,
Deanna: yeah.
Paola : Yeah. Is is is brand new from Lippo Tech for Lab Solution, a division within OL that combines aesthetics, but also with performance skincare. Brands are struggling to stand out in the market because of course it's about performance gels, emulsions, but at the end, the same type of textures that consumers already know.
But we identify that consumers needs more and. They say, for instance, from our research that we found that 81% of the [00:12:00] respondents say that they didn't feel excited about a brand and for anymore, so they need innovation. And here we also saw that visual, eh, textures perhaps was only, were only about, um, the perception.
Of, uh, innovation, the perception of something novelty or the perception that it performs. But here, the product that we are launching at Como CosmoPackk, which is Active Marble Dual serum combines, uh, sensorial performance and, and great aesthetics visually, of course, because they have, for instance, a.
Suspended particles that are white particles that look like a flake, for instance, that are waxy flakes and they are suspended in an aqua gel. And those two phases contains active ingredients. And we tested the final formulation with consumers to [00:13:00] explore how was the perception towards this type of new texture?
Quite yeah, visually appealing. Uh, and, and, and the results were fantastic.
Deanna: Yeah. It's so interesting. It's just so interesting because what you're describing is a, a pretty product, right? It's nice to look at, but you're also describing something that's pretty, and we don't usually say that, but pretty in terms of efficacy, uhhuh.
Um, and I, I just think it's so interesting, you know, sometimes in the industry we talk about consumer's perception of a product in terms of. Do they think this is, you know, a pure or clean product or the color psychology of packaging. But I think what you're talking about is something else. You mentioned learning from consumers, getting their feedback on this.
Um, this prototype is, is how I would describe it. Um, but can you say more about sort of how consumers are thinking about pretty products?
Paola : Yeah. Um, yeah, yeah. Pretty products that also perform is true. For instance, we [00:14:00] conducted a research that was by revealing honestly different, different, uh, tests and research that we conducted.
And we wanted to learn more from the consumer journey. When they saw this product, what was the perception? And we tested online just the picture of the product, uh, and check the reactions and the consumer say it's quite, uh, modern. We perceive that it, that is, uh, well, uh. Produce that it performs. But then we ask, okay, if I tell you that it contains active ingredients in each phase, the aquas phase, but also the waxy particles, it was incredible to see how the perception and the portion intention increased because they say, okay, if you tell me that it's per, it performs.
And also that all these phases contain active ingredients. The purchase intention grow four percentile points. [00:15:00] So was quite revealing. But then we tested with, uh, consumers just to say, check the sensorial. When you go to a retail, for instance, a retailer, and you test Yeah, the product to see yeah, if you buy it or not.
And we identified that at that point they loved the texture because it was. Refreshing, uh, jelly, uh, the absorption was great. They feel comfortable using that, and they feel that the, the comfort coming from this texture. But we went a step farther and we also conducted a use test when consumers tried this product, uh, for one month.
And here was quite interesting because, uh, here we have different. Um, generations and we thought perhaps that maybe the perception from, uh, millennials on Gen X towards [00:16:00] this product, maybe it was not going to to be so good, but we found that cross generations. Everyone love this, uh, formulation. They love this product.
But the most important, the clinical testing, I mean with all the equipment, with all the instrumentals that we have, uh, reveal that, uh, when it comes to reducing wrinkles, thanks to targeting the skin biology, also the dark spots, the whitening, uh, the fine lines, I mean, was amazing the results that we obtained on the skin.
And based on that. Was was quite interesting to see that 100% of those, uh, volunteers express that this product makes them not only feel younger, but makes them feel that they were doing something, uh, for the skin health. And also was important for them to say, I will purchase this product. And of course for us it was quite important to see that, that they will purchase, uh, this product.
And [00:17:00] it was not only the Gen Z no across generations, everyone was, uh, really, really love this product. So, uh, we can confirm that it's not only about visual appealing that the product looks well, it's about also the beauty of the. Good results, the beauty of the clinical testing and how it can be translated into a final product.
Deanna: Sure, sure. That's an excellent case study. I, I really appreciate your sharing all those details. And my brain really landed on that moment when you said, explaining to the consumer that both phases contain active ingredients. I think, um, there are plenty of times when the aesthetics of a product. Are really decorative, right?
We, we add glitter. And don't get me wrong, I love glitter, like bring it on. But, um, but to think about the waxy Flakes, right? It's not simply a sparkle. Um, it has a bit of [00:18:00] light play, um, because of the, the material itself, but there are active ingredients in that as well as the gel. I, I think that's, that's very compelling.
A very interesting piece.
Paola : That's right. Yeah. Fantastic. And so far, uh, at the boot here at Como Park. A lot of traffic at the booth because of course everyone wants to know more and learn more about the, the, the science, but also how we can make this happen, uh, in our lab, but also in our facilities for manufacturing.
Deanna: Yeah. Abs, I'll have to stop by experience this product.
Yeah. I wait for you there.
Uh, now before we finish up, Paola, I do have to ask, um, do you have any new ingredient launches from the company or can you talk about maybe what the team at LUOL is developing for the future?
Paola : Yeah, yeah, of course. We are, uh, launching products, as I mentioned, targeting the skin health.
Deanna: Yes.
Paola : Uh, active ingredients, specifically peptides, uh, that are going to, uh, to target all the benefits that you need. For [00:19:00] instance, in the icon turn, because of course when you see someone, you can tell if that person could sleep properly or is having a good or bad time. Of course, the age can be bu. With your icon turn.
So we are launching a new product targeting, uh, this, this area, the the CONT turn, and of course from Lippo Tech for Lab Solutions, the division that manufacture finished goods for brands. We are launching other type of technologies that are, again, different in terms of how the consumers can apply the skincare.
Like capsules or dual chambers, serums, uh, but it's all about bringing novelty to the skincare category, which is quite Yeah. Competitive nowadays.
Deanna: Yes, yes. Fantastic. Thank you for all that, lots to be looking at. Looking forward to [00:20:00] Paola. This was a wonderful chance to learn more about the importance of skin biology, the importance of ingredients of products, sensorial attributes.
I, I thank you for sitting down with me here in Italy and for being my guest. On CosmoFactory. Oh,
Paola : thank you so much Deanna, for having me here. It was a pleasure to share Yeah. The stage here with you at CosmoPack.