COSMOFACTORY

Deanna: [00:00:00] This episode is about aromatherapy and just in time skincare production. It's about the neuro cosmetic attributes of essential oils. About solid facial cleansers and about the role that scent plays in human health and in the appearance of our skin. On today's episode of the CosmoFactory podcast, my guest is Young-ok Bok, CEO at Mesacosa.
Deanna: Welcome.
Young-ok: Oh, thank you. my name is Young Ok Bok. I'm [00:01:00] CEO head of Mesacosa, but please call me Katalina.
Deanna: Ah, yes. Thank you, Katalina. I will, I will be sure to do that. Thank you. I'm so glad you're here on the podcast today.
Young-ok: for allowing me to join this podcast. Thank you.
Deanna: Yes, you're welcome. Let's, let's start, if you don't mind, with some very basic information. Just tell us what is aromatherapy.
Young-ok: Aromatherapy is a therapy method using medicinal plant extract. We call essential oil, and then with this essential oil, we, um, we breathe. Or we apply to our skin or, so this kind of thing. And then it, this aroma from the plant extract goes into your body and affect your emotionally psychology, uh, psychologically and then physical as well.[00:02:00]
Young-ok: So makes our body healthy. Emotionally peaceful and happy.
Deanna: Yeah, yes, yes. Excellent. That's a very helpful definition to start with. Um, I'm wondering if you can also explain for us just a bit the difference then between what we would think of as a scented cosmetics product, something that has a nice fragrance to it, um, and then products that are made using the principles of aromatherapy.
Deanna: What, what really distinguishes one from the other?
Young-ok: Yes. Aromatherapy product is, um, uh, yeah. This aroma is, um, come from natural medicinal plant like basil. or coriander, something like, when we eat every day. So this extract goes into our body and acting very similar way to our food, from the food when we eat. But artificial, [00:03:00] um, okay, programs we said, artificial chemical, uh, goes into our body and act some, bit differently.
Deanna: Yeah, it sounds like you're, it sounds like, the, the mechanism of action that maybe a hydrosol or even a synthesized fragrance input might have is somewhat different from what, um, an essential oil or a medicinal extract has. Is that, is that what I'm hearing you say?
Young-ok: I want to say, yes, I think very similar. Um, I want to say, when you have your child, and I don't know, just want to, I don't know, I just want to explain something. When you have your child, we let them eat very good food. Rather than the, what can I say, the junk food?
Deanna: Right, right. Over processed foods or, or we would call them junk foods,
Young-ok: yeah. Junk [00:04:00] food is not really good for their health. Something like that. I can, I can, I can say that it is very similar way. The aroma is very good for, good food, good for our health. But the, uh, artificial chemical or fragrance can, we can say it's junk food. Something like that.
Young-ok: some comparison. I don't know. I, I, I dunno how to explain, but suddenly in my hand, I, I thought, because when I, when I think about co cosmetic, I also think about this cosmetic is. Food for not only for our skin, but also our body is when we apply cosmetic, we, these cosmetic is goes into our body. So same as a food.
Young-ok: When we eat food, we try to eat something good for our health. We normally do [00:05:00] that. And then we try to, um, not to eat much of junk food, something like that. Yeah, I think it's very similar.
Deanna: Yes. Yes. No, that's, that's a helpful analogy. Thank you. Um, as I understand it, um, aromatherapy can actually have what we would describe as neurocosmetic benefits. Do you have an example of that you can share? And if you happen to have any, uh, clinical data or anecdotal evidence, um, of those sorts of neurocosmetic benefits, that, that would be helpful.
Young-ok: Actually, there's a Plenty of the research article regarding this neuropsych, neuro neuropsychological effect onto our body. There is, uh, many articles, so I can't, uh, I can't say only one or two, but actually when the aromas came into our body through our, the, the system. It goes into our brain, [00:06:00] our limbic system, actually, and then it, uh, it gives some signal to our hypothalamus and then pituitary gland.
Young-ok: Through the pituitary gland and the hypothalamus, all our body, Well, react or observe this chemical from the aroma from the plant extract, and then it's absorbed into the body and then it acts. Neurological effect is definitely, definitely. Definitely there is. And then there's a numerous article about that.
Deanna: Yeah, can you share maybe what some of the, the benefits might be?
Young-ok: There was an article, I recognize, I recall now, and that article was written by a professor at the university in Japan, actually. And then he, he did some experimental study using the aromatherapy [00:07:00] essential oil. he used the small, small mouse. Yeah. And then this mouse, when after getting much, much big stress onto the, uh, mouse, after that, uh, he gave some aroma. He, at that time he used the loose and tomatoes and local as a oil, and then also lemon essential oil, something like that. And then the other part is. Nothing, didn't, didn't give anything.
Young-ok: And then two group showed very different because one group has the essential oil in it. Their, their mouse was, um, recovered very quickly, and then their immune system is, goes up and then, uh, very, their their act act, they are acting as ANU and very, uh, it looks like happy. But the other people, when, when they, [00:08:00] uh, after the.
Young-ok: Too much stress, and then just slept as it was, and then the groove of the mouth was very thick, and then very weak in the immune system, something like that. So, this experiment is just I had in my mind, but there's more, more research out there. And then, yeah, I have my, my article, actually.
Deanna: Yes, tell us about this.
Young-ok: Yeah, I studied the lavender essential oil and then rosemary essential oil when I studied in a psychology study at University of Plymouth in UK and then at that time I carried on some experiment study and then I After the study, I found that the lavender essential oil makes people really relaxed and And then, um, without, uh, but less [00:09:00] stress.
Young-ok: Whilst the rosemary essential oil make people feel more alert, uh, they wake up.
Young-ok: And
Young-ok: then they can concentrate More
Young-ok: So, this different action is, uh, proved that, uh, Many more other article was in the field, and then it proved again. So, after this study, as a result, I got a bachelor's degree in psychology. So, it was really my study. I don't know why didn't I think about this at the beginning.
Deanna: . Yes. No. And that's exactly why I'm asking you these sorts of questions. I know you have a tremendous academic and professional background in the space for sure. Um, so I'm just curious. I, I hadn't really thought of this before, but Essential oils can evaporate very quickly. Um, are you able to, to see, [00:10:00] um, once a scent is gone, do the benefits of aromatherapy continue, or does it have to be present as a, as a scent?
Young-ok: let's talk about the food again, . When,
Deanna: Yeah.
Young-ok: when we eat food, food remains into our body, you our in inside our body. And then after the digestion, the completely goes out. Same, same way. Aroma. The aroma from the essential oil came into our body, and then it, the aroma will remains. Uh, normally the, our. Blood circulation, I mean, um, cardiovascular system, uh, blood, into our blood.
Young-ok: When we breathe, when we breathe, the chemical from the aroma came into our body. And then from the lung, it absorbed into our blood system. And the blood system goes around our body. And then [00:11:00] it affects our body. Our physicality and emotionally everything, and then it is the chemical, the aroma, aroma goes out from our body within 24 hours.
Young-ok: So, When we, uh, when we smell aromatherapy, aroma essential oil, already it goes into our limbic system, and then our body, our lung. So even if you don't hold this essential oil bottle, it's already into our body. So, um,
Young-ok: so no, but that food analogy is still a good one, right? Your body is somehow digesting or processing that aromatherapy.
Young-ok: Same way, sorry.
Young-ok: It goes out of our body with a digestive system. But the essential oil goes into our body through the neurological [00:12:00] system, nervous system, and then also hormone system as well. So, both, and also the respiratory system as well. So, through this system. Anyway, the aroma goes our body, goes into our body.
Young-ok: So that's why I thought aromatherapy is very important to adopt cosmetics as well. Because we, we women, we use cosmetics every day.
Deanna: Right, right. No, absolutely. And, and let's talk a bit about that. I promised our listeners at the beginning that we would discuss solid skin care and the company that you lead, uh, called Mesacosa owns multiple brands. One of them, uh, is Salvio Cosmetics. And you have a product line under Salveo Cosmetics that I would say, uh, puts a very thoughtful twist on conventional bar soaps.
Deanna: I'm, I'm hoping you can tell us about the line that you have of solid facial cleansers. Can you describe that for us?
Young-ok: Yeah, um, [00:13:00] when we cleanse our skin. I found that, uh, normally the ladies using cleansing foam instead of cleansing soaps. Uh, cleansing foam is really harsh to your, uh, skin. I mean, cleansing foam cleanse your skin very thoroughly, clean, make it very clean. But in this way, this cleansing, um, this foam makes the oil from skin also clean.
Young-ok: Take it out and let it dry can make it our skin dry, but normally when we get older Our skin it tended to dry rather than oily so we need to take care about our moisture our skin and then so when I make soaps, I Think about [00:14:00] the skin type as well When you have very oily skin, I think I should be care about your skin oil more.
Young-ok: When you have dry skin, I think the moisturizing skin is very important. Something like that. So, when I make a sauce, I use different kind of vegetable oil, depending on which skin type. And then, also, it depends on the skin type. There is some kind of the, uh, we need some therapeutic under the Salveo brand, there is six different soaps. So, one for the dry and mature skin, one for the epinephrine skin, and one for dry and problematic skin, something like. And then the normal skin as well, and also there is a source for sensitive and oral, the baby skin as [00:15:00] well.
Young-ok: So there is six different sorts. For each skin type.
Deanna: Yeah, so maybe tell us maybe about sensitive skin soap
Deanna: or, or dry skin
Deanna: soap. What, what are the um, aromatherapy ingredients there?
Young-ok: for sensitive skin, I use o only, uh, coconut oil and then ular oil.
Young-ok: So make this sauces with very soft oil. And then, uh, I put frankincense and more essential oil.
Deanna: And tell us, tell us why those oils belong in a sensitive skin cleanser.
Young-ok: Frankincense and myrrh essential oil is very good. It's very, I can say it's used since Jesus came. When baby Jesus was born, the wise man from, from, doctor, wise man, uh, presented, uh, Frankincense and more and good for the baby Jesus. And these gifts, I, I [00:16:00] believe that those are very good for baby Jesus and a very, very, what can I say, the, I guess, very, very high valued gift.
Young-ok: the oil, and then the material, and then good for the skin healing as well. So, from the history background, I choose frankincense and more essential oil into this sensitive skin, because the, um, sensitive skin can tend to get, um, very, very sensitive. Very sensitive and very, uh, can I say weak? Can I say weak?
Young-ok: Like baby skin?
Deanna: Right. More
Young-ok: Talk about skin.
Deanna: More delicate.
Young-ok: Yeah. Thank you very much for your body product. So I, I use more essential oil and then Frank as well.
Deanna: Yeah. And can you give us an example of one other, um, [00:17:00] maybe, um, you were saying there's, there's a soap for a very dry skin. What are the essential oils there?
Young-ok: right? Skin, uh, dry. And uh, there are two sos for dry and mature, mature skin or. Dry and problematic skin. Dry and mature skin is for aging, aging person with dry skin like me.
Deanna: More like me. And we're both aging.
Young-ok: And then some people, maybe even younger person, are very dry with some kind of dermatitis.
Young-ok: Something like atopic dermatitis, or something like, normally this dermatitis or atopic dermatitis, this, this kind of, uh, symptom is from, Very dry skin and the stress environment. So, these are very completely different, uh, ingredients I use.[00:18:00]
Young-ok: Because for dry and mature skin, I use rosehip oil and St. John's wort oil, something like that, and the baobab. oil to make soaps. However, when I make dry and, uh, when I make other soaps, which is for dry with problematic skin, I use, because I use, um, sorry, I use the avocado and tamarind vegetable oil to use to make the soaps, because treating the problematic skin with Very dry.
Young-ok: Uh, the avocado and tamano is the best to treat,
Deanna: Yes. Yes. No, those are those are very good examples. Thank you. Thank you. That's, that's very helpful. Um, I do want to just take a little moment out of our conversation. Um, to [00:19:00] mention, we know there are so many exciting innovations in terms of solid skin care, like we've been talking about your solid, um, Um, soap style facial cleansers.
Deanna: Um, but there are many other sort of solid and waterless products in this space. So, um, for everyone listening, I just want to mention if you're curious about solid skincare, um, after you finish this episode, you might want to go back and listen to episode 18 of the Cosmo factory podcast. And in that episode, I got to interview a formulation chemist, as well as a marketing expert from the manufacturing company called OPOC.
Deanna: And we talk about solid skincare there. So, um, if that's fascinating to you. Uh, please do go back and check that out when we finish. Um, uh, but with you, Katerina, I'm hoping, um, to hear a bit more about the Salveo line of facial cleansers that you have, um, you've told me that you're manufacturing the cleansing bars using what we would call on demand or just in time manufacturing.
Deanna: Um, help us think about the advantages of this type of production.
Young-ok: I make cosmetic when [00:20:00] I get older. Only for skincare, uh, this cream, serum, and toner. For hand made soaps. For me, it took two months to complete the process.
Deanna: Sure.
Young-ok: So, this is soap making. I make all the times without any order.
Deanna: Okay. So the, the soap style facial cleansers, you're not doing on demand, but with your serums and, and other products you are, help us think about that, that on demand option.
Young-ok: uh, by avoiding synthetic preservatives, the shelf life of my cosmetic is very short.
Deanna: right.
Young-ok: So to ensure the freshness, I produce each product to order. That's why from the beginning, I thought that I make my product when I get order.
Young-ok: So it This method, allowing me, allowing me to deliver the highest quality with fresh state [00:21:00] to my customers, customers. So, yeah, so this, this method may be not really practical, but I, I don't know. I don't know. In the future, if Uh, there's many inquiry from, uh, buyers and then business partner from the the global market.
Young-ok: So in the future, maybe I need to expand my my cosmetic or manufacturing the capacity, but If necessary, I need to expansion my company. Still, I believe that producing products after receiving orders will remain the best approach for ensuring their freshness and quality. So, I don't know, I will try to keep this belief.
Deanna: [00:22:00] Yes. Yes. No. And I think, you know, it's interesting because you have a very particular reason for using, um, what we think of as on demand or just in time manufacturing. Um, but we see lots of other reasons, um, showing up, you know, some companies are using this type of production as a way to reduce waste. Um, if something's not sitting in a, in the warehouse for too long, um, and they, you know, they, they know, um, sort of how to manage demand.
Deanna: It's a different way to, to manage, um, consumer demand and keep up in that regard. Um, so, so it's, I think it's. It's becoming more popular and there are certainly technologies, um, right to help make it much more practical, um, both as you're suggesting in terms of, um, product volume and, and scale. Um, you know, if you have large orders to fill, but, but also just, you know, in terms of, um, yeah, in terms of efficiency, I think, um, just in time manufacturing, um, is becoming much more possible and much more practical as well.
Deanna: So, um, it'll be interesting to watch with your [00:23:00] brand and, and with many others for sure.
Young-ok: Thank you. Thank you very much for your comment. And then, yeah, I feel very happy to recognize my method. Maybe it's a little bit practical and then it's getting, yeah, it's very good. Thank you.
Deanna: No, it makes good sense. You're welcome. and I know that you're at work on another, maybe it's a line of skin care that you're planning to launch, I think you told me in early 2025, that's focused on acne care. Can you talk about what you're developing there?
Young-ok: Um, yes, I'd like to talk about the acne care line as well. Um, do you care about acne skin? thought the antibacterial and then antivirus effect is very good to care about the skin, but also we need to care about the motorizing and then the skin sebum
Deanna: Yes, the [00:24:00] sebum.
Young-ok: of the skin. So, to control. The se and then the also moisturizing skin, also the antibacteria, the effect I, I use tissue, water, and essential oil, lavender and th essential oil as well.
Young-ok: So these combination is, will be of very good, beneficial to acne skin. And also, I'm thinking about, no, no, not thinking about . I, I use the black min oil. And then Bollinger and Nim Oil as well. Those oil is very good for skin. At the AP acne skin, there is a numerous article about the effect of the, the Bollinger or Nim oil to against AP skin.
Young-ok: So read these, uh, raw material. I make [00:25:00] the skin lines cosmetics, and then I believe it will be very good. Teenager, you know, who have some problem with acne.
Deanna: Sure. And is this skin care, um, also in bar format? Is it, is it like a soap or is this a more, um, conventional liquid line of skin care products? Yes.
Young-ok: Actually, I have all the three. The, first of all, you wash the, wash your skin with acne soaps. Acne, soap for acne skin, uh, type. And then
Deanna: cleanser is a bar.
Young-ok: Yes, after that, you need a toner for skin skin. And then there's a serum and cream as well. And the final stage, uh, before you go to bed, [00:26:00] I ask you to use acne facial oil as well.
Young-ok: So there is a five different type of acne facial oil. The product.
Deanna: Mm hmm. No, that makes, that makes very good sense to have the full routine and, and different formats.
Deanna: so we were talking earlier, um, about the Salveo Cosmetics brand in particular, and I believe that's a brand that you export, um, but the brands, um, Salveo Cosmetics as well as others, um, from Mesacosa are sold in Korea also, is that correct? And Korea is where you're based. Mm hmm.
Young-ok: Yes. Yes. Because I'm based in Korea. I sell this product in Korea as well as if exporting it to the U. S. No, mostly the European country
Deanna: Mm hmm. Excellent. So I'm just um, maybe asking this question for other brand leaders who are listening and maybe watching the consumer beauty marketplace in Korea. Is there anything you can tell us [00:27:00] about the market trends or the consumer expectations in Korea today?
Young-ok: in Korea. We also concerned about the environment. And that was the, which is good for our body. So, in many Korean people, the concern about the artificial chemical, and then, um. Synthetic preservative as well. So my cosmetic, especially our beauty trend is for neuro cosmetic. And then psychic cosmetic is so since this kind of the trend, um, also in Korea, same, same as the European country already
Deanna: Yes. Yes, we've been talking a lot about wellness, um, as a global trend recently and it seems like that is Um, as you said,
Young-ok: as in Korea.
Deanna: but yeah, interesting. you've told me in earlier conversations that we've [00:28:00] had that aromatherapy, As a discipline has been significant in Korea for maybe 25 years.
Deanna: Um, and I know, I think I even mentioned it earlier here that your personal academic research, um, and your work in the beauty industry encompasses both aromatherapy, but also traditional Korean medicine. Um, and you have mentioned some of the essential oils coming from, or being medicinal extracts as well, but I'm hoping you can help us understand how aromatherapy and traditional medicine overlap.
Deanna: How are they similar? How are they different?
Young-ok: All right. Yes, um, but, Aromatherapy, uh, It's using essential oil and then these essential oils, uh, extract of medicinal plant and then traditional Kodera medicine and also traditional Chinese medicine as well. Those medicine is using [00:29:00] from medicinal plant as well. So, uh, paste. In the baseline, both aromatherapy and Korean traditional medicine, we all use medicinal plant.
Young-ok: The difference between the aromatherapy and then Korean medicine is the method of extraction and then difference in application.
Deanna: Mm hmm.
Young-ok: The aromatherapy essential oil, we extract from medicinal plant through stent insulation or It's something like, and then apply onto our skin or we just breathe in into our body. The traditional Korean medicine and then Chinese medicine, something like these kind of medicine method using the medicinal plant, [00:30:00] some kind of boiling, some oil and then some eat it, drink. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah. System, so a different method of destruction and different method of application, something like that, or we all use the same medicinal plant.
Deanna: Okay. Yes. Oh, that's wonderful. No, thank you for explaining that. Um, and, and maybe you can tell me a little bit then also about how your knowledge of medicine influences the way that you develop consumer brands and formulate skin care. I imagine you're not only thinking about aromatherapy when you're choosing your ingredients or formulations, but also But you're, you're borrowing from both fields.
Deanna: How, how does that, how does that work for you?
Young-ok: Yes, actually, we all know the, in Korean, in Korea, we all know the, this thing is very good for our skin, our body. And then also Angelica, you know, [00:31:00] Angelica, Angelica is very good for our body as well, especially for women's health. It's very good for women's health. And then, um, The blood system, make it, um, make, make detoxifying our body, something like.
Young-ok: So, these two, the, the medicinal plant, already a famous, uh, medicinal plant to eat. But,
Deanna: Yeah.
Young-ok: um, these, uh, I, I, in, into our cosmetic, I use ginseng and angelica as well. Because, um, applying to our body. Skin is also important, I, I think the cosmetic as a food.
Deanna: what, what I'm hearing you say is that, um, ingredients that are very well known for their benefits in traditional Korean medicine, um, are ones that you're also selecting then, [00:32:00] um, for, for skin care benefits, um, and if the, if the customer is familiar, um, Uh, with the advantages they have, um, as a medicine, they're more excited to see them in their skin care.
Deanna: And we see this in all sorts of markets, right? We know if there's an ingredient, um, in the beverage space or functional foods, um, you know, people are also seeing it in skin care. We think about superfoods all the time or certain supplements, right? Sometimes they start as a skin care product and then they We see them as an ingestible supplement or a pill and sometimes it works the other way around.
Deanna: People see a supplement and then they want it as a topical product as well. So this, this makes perfect sense. Yes.
Young-ok: Thank you very much. My English was very terrible, but you understood very well.
Deanna: You know, you make, you make good sense.
Young-ok: Thank you very much.
Deanna: Yeah, yeah, I think I have, um, maybe just, just one more question for you. there's an expression in our industry, right, that we hear quite often, and that is beauty comes [00:33:00] from within.
Deanna: Um, and of course, this expression can be interpreted in many ways. It can, it can mean different things to different people. And we know, of course, um, you know, we're speaking to a global audience here that different regulatory guidelines for cosmetics and medical products in some markets around the world make it very clear, right?
Deanna: This is skin care. This is medicine. They're very separate, um, in, in certain marketplaces. Um, but you've told me before that physical and mental health should be the basis for beautiful and healthy skin. skin. Um, which reminds me of that expression, right? Beauty comes from within. Um, I'm hoping you can explain, um, that quote of yours, um, in terms of what it means for your brands and what you hope it means for beauty consumers as well.
Young-ok: Um, yes, I believe that true beauty starts with physical. and emotional release. When people are healthy inside and [00:34:00] out, the people naturally becomes radiant and beautiful. That's why I'm thinking is the raw material from medicinal plants is very important. And then with this, with this belief, I. Prioritize healthy focused ingredients for my cosmetics.
Deanna: Yeah, no, it makes sense. It sounds like you're thinking about wellness more holistically, but knowing that it will then have a skin care benefit.
Young-ok: yeah, that's right.
Deanna: And I have to say, thank you, Katalina. This has been a very interesting conversation. I've enjoyed speaking with you here on the Cosmo Factory podcast. Thank you.
Young-ok: Thank you very much. [00:35:00]